Behentrimonium Chloride

At ORY^®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about behentrimonium chloride. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.

How to read this page

Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews.

Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY^® uses.

Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly.

1. General Description and Role

Claim: Behentrimonium chloride is a long-chain (C22) cationic conditioner. In ORY^® Haircare, it helps hair detangle easily and feel soft, smooth, and less frizzy.

Verification: Supported. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that trimoniums, including behentrimonium chloride, are safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating.

Citations:

- Becker, L. C., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(6 Suppl), 296S–341S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812467378
  - What it shows: CIR safety assessment of trimoniums (2012).

2. Composition and Production

Claim: Behentrimonium chloride is made from behenyl (C22) amine, usually from rapeseed oil, and supplied in propylene glycol or isopropanol. Its positive charge binds to the negatively charged surface of hair.

Verification: Supported. In the EU it is limited to 5% in rinse-off hair products and 3% in leave-on products.

Citations:

- Becker, L. C., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(6 Suppl), 296S–341S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812467378
  - What it shows: Describes chemistry.
- European Union. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Annex III as amended by Commission Regulation (EU) No 866/2014 (cetrimonium chloride: 2.5% rinse-off hair, 1.0% leave-on hair, 0.5% leave-on face; behentrimonium chloride: 5.0% rinse-off hair, 3.0% leave-on hair and face). https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2014/866/oj
  - What it shows: EU limits.

3. Skin Type Suitability

Claim: ORY^® uses behentrimonium chloride only at low levels in a few body products.

Verification: Supported. CIR asks that products be formulated to be non-irritating; ORY^® keeps skin products at or below 0.5%.

Citations:

- Becker, L. C., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(6 Suppl), 296S–341S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812467378
  - What it shows: Safety conclusion.

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

Claim: In haircare, behentrimonium chloride helps detangle, smooth frizz, and soften hair.

Verification: Supported. Cationic conditioners deposit on hair and reduce combing friction, as described in hair-science literature.

Citations:

- Hössel, P., Dieing, R., Nörenberg, R., Pfau, A., & Sander, R. (2000). Conditioning polymers in today’s shampoo formulations – efficacy, mechanism and test methods. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 22(1), 1–10. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00003.x
  - What it shows: Review of conditioning mechanisms.
- Robbins, C. R. (2012). Chemical and physical behavior of human hair (5th ed.). Springer (reference book). https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-25611-0
  - What it shows: Reference text.
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
  - What it shows: Review of hair cosmetics.

5. Benefits

Claim: Behentrimonium chloride makes wet hair easier to comb and helps hair feel soft and smooth.

Verification: Supported. These are cosmetic conditioning effects.

Citations:

- Hössel, P., Dieing, R., Nörenberg, R., Pfau, A., & Sander, R. (2000). Conditioning polymers in today’s shampoo formulations – efficacy, mechanism and test methods. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 22(1), 1–10. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00003.x
  - What it shows: Conditioning.
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
  - What it shows: Review.

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines

Claim: Behentrimonium chloride is used mainly in ORY^® Haircare, with limited body-care, conditioner-bar, and mascara use.

Verification: Supported. It is not used in soap itself because it reacts with soap.

Product line	Typical level	How ORY^® uses it
Skincare	0.3–0.5%	A few body lotions and cream cleansers.
Haircare	1–3% rinse-off; 3–5% masks; 0.5–1.5% leave-in	Conditioners, masks, and leave-ins.
Handmade Soap line	5–15% in bars	Solid conditioner bars (cosmetics), not soap.
Cosmetics	0.5–2%	Mascaras and brow products.

Citations:

- European Union. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Annex III as amended by Commission Regulation (EU) No 866/2014 (cetrimonium chloride: 2.5% rinse-off hair, 1.0% leave-on hair, 0.5% leave-on face; behentrimonium chloride: 5.0% rinse-off hair, 3.0% leave-on hair and face). https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2014/866/oj
  - What it shows: Use limits.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
  - What it shows: FDA definition of soap; other bars are cosmetics.

7. Pros

Claim: A highly effective hair conditioner with a CIR safety conclusion.

Verification: Supported. Supported by hair science and CIR review.

Citations:

- Becker, L. C., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(6 Suppl), 296S–341S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812467378
  - What it shows: Safety.
- Hössel, P., Dieing, R., Nörenberg, R., Pfau, A., & Sander, R. (2000). Conditioning polymers in today’s shampoo formulations – efficacy, mechanism and test methods. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 22(1), 1–10. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00003.x
  - What it shows: Performance.

8. Cons

Claim: Behentrimonium chloride can irritate at high levels and weigh down fine hair.

Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:

- Concentration limits. Stay within EU limits.
- Eye and scalp irritation at high levels.
- Buildup on fine hair.
- Solvent carrier (propylene glycol or isopropanol).

Citations:

- Becker, L. C., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(6 Suppl), 296S–341S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812467378
  - What it shows: Safety data.

9. Safety Notes

Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only.

Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:

- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- Keep out of the eyes; rinse thoroughly if contact occurs.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes unless the product is made for the eye area.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.

Citations:

- Becker, L. C., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(6 Suppl), 296S–341S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812467378
  - What it shows: Safety conclusion.

10. Product-line notes

- ORY^® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY^® Haircare: Designed for the look and feel of hair and scalp comfort. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss.
- ORY^® Handmade Soap line: This ingredient is used only in conditioner bars, which are cosmetics under FDA rules, not in soap.
- ORY^® Cosmetics: Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.

11. References

Peer-reviewed research

- Becker, L. C., et al. (2012). Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 31(6 Suppl), 296S–341S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581812467378
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
- Hössel, P., Dieing, R., Nörenberg, R., Pfau, A., & Sander, R. (2000). Conditioning polymers in today’s shampoo formulations – efficacy, mechanism and test methods. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 22(1), 1–10. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00003.x
- Robbins, C. R. (2012). Chemical and physical behavior of human hair (5th ed.). Springer (reference book). https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-25611-0

Government and regulatory sources

- European Union. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Annex III as amended by Commission Regulation (EU) No 866/2014 (cetrimonium chloride: 2.5% rinse-off hair, 1.0% leave-on hair, 0.5% leave-on face; behentrimonium chloride: 5.0% rinse-off hair, 3.0% leave-on hair and face). https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2014/866/oj
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20

1. General Description and Role

2. Composition and Production

3. Skin Type Suitability

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

5. Benefits

6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines

7. Pros

8. Cons

9. Safety Notes

10. Product-line notes

11. References

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines