At ORY®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about tea polyphenol palmitate. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.
Please note: Some studies on this page tested green tea catechins for acne, sun damage, or hair growth, which are medical uses, and used water-soluble green tea, not the palmitate ester. We share them for transparency. ORY® products with tea polyphenol palmitate are cosmetics and are not intended to treat any condition.
How to read this page Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews. Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY® uses. Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly. |
1. General Description and Role
Claim: Tea polyphenol palmitate is made by attaching palmitic acid (a fatty acid) to green tea catechins such as EGCG, which makes them oil-soluble. In ORY® products, it provides antioxidant support in oils, balms, and lipsticks and helps protect those products from going rancid. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. In lab tests, these oil-soluble EGCG derivatives were stronger antioxidants than EGCG itself in fats and oils. CIR’s green tea assessment covers green tea leaf ingredients but not the palmitate esters, and we found no separate CIR assessment.
Citations:
- Zhong, Y., & Shahidi, F. (2011). Lipophilized epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) derivatives as novel antioxidants. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 59(12), 6526–6533. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf201050j
- What it shows: Lab study of oil-soluble EGCG derivatives.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2019). Safety assessment of Camellia sinensis-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 38(3 Suppl), 48S–70S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581819889914
- What it shows: CIR green tea assessment (does not cover the ester).
- Zhong, Y., & Shahidi, F. (2011). Lipophilized epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) derivatives as novel antioxidants. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 59(12), 6526–6533. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf201050j
2. Composition and Production
Claim: It is made by esterifying green tea polyphenols (mainly EGCG) with palmitic acid, giving a pale-yellow, oil-soluble powder or paste. |
Verification: Supported. Its chemistry and antioxidant activity in oils are documented in lab studies.
Citations:
- Zhong, Y., & Shahidi, F. (2011). Lipophilized epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) derivatives as novel antioxidants. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 59(12), 6526–6533. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf201050j
- What it shows: Describes chemistry and antioxidant testing.
- Zhong, Y., & Shahidi, F. (2011). Lipophilized epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) derivatives as novel antioxidants. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 59(12), 6526–6533. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf201050j
3. Skin Type Suitability
Claim: Tea polyphenol palmitate suits all skin types in oil-based products. |
Verification: Limited evidence. We found no skin-tolerance or clinical studies of the palmitate ester itself.
Citations:
- Zhong, Y., & Shahidi, F. (2011). Lipophilized epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) derivatives as novel antioxidants. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 59(12), 6526–6533. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf201050j
- What it shows: Lab study only.
- Zhong, Y., & Shahidi, F. (2011). Lipophilized epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) derivatives as novel antioxidants. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 59(12), 6526–6533. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf201050j
4. Hair and Scalp Suitability
Claim: In haircare, tea polyphenol palmitate provides antioxidant support in hair oils and scalp serums. |
Verification: Limited evidence. A lab study found EGCG stimulated cultured human hair follicles, but that used EGCG, not the ester, and hair-growth claims are drug claims. ORY® makes none.
Citations:
- Kwon, O. S., et al. (2007). Human hair growth enhancement in vitro by green tea epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). Phytomedicine, 14(7–8), 551–555. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17092697/
- What it shows: Lab study of EGCG on hair follicles.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 310.527 — Drug products offered over-the-counter for external use as hair growers or for hair loss prevention. https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/310.527
- What it shows: FDA treats hair-growth products as drugs.
- Kwon, O. S., et al. (2007). Human hair growth enhancement in vitro by green tea epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). Phytomedicine, 14(7–8), 551–555. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17092697/
5. Benefits
Claim: Tea polyphenol palmitate provides antioxidant support and helps keep oil-based products fresh. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Antioxidant activity in oils is shown in the lab. Human studies of green tea for UV protection and acne used water-soluble green tea or EGCG, not this ester, and those are drug claims. ORY® products with this ingredient are not sunscreens and do not make acne claims.
Citations:
- Zhong, Y., & Shahidi, F. (2011). Lipophilized epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) derivatives as novel antioxidants. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 59(12), 6526–6533. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf201050j
- What it shows: Lab antioxidant evidence.
- Elmets, C. A., Singh, D., Tubesing, K., Matsui, M., Katiyar, S., & Mukhtar, H. (2001). Cutaneous photoprotection from ultraviolet injury by green tea polyphenols. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 44(3), 425–432. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11209110/
- What it shows: Human UV study of green tea polyphenols (not the ester).
- Yoon, J. Y., Kwon, H. H., Min, S. U., Thiboutot, D. M., & Suh, D. H. (2013). Epigallocatechin-3-gallate improves acne in humans by modulating intracellular molecular targets and inhibiting P. acnes. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 133(2), 429–440. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23096708/
- What it shows: Acne study of EGCG (a medical use).
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019, February 26). Sunscreen drug products for over-the-counter human use (proposed rule), 84 FR 6204. https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2019/02/26/2019-03019/sunscreen-drug-products-for-over-the-counter-human-use
- What it shows: FDA sunscreen rules.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 333, Subpart D — Topical acne drug products for over-the-counter human use. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-333/subpart-D
- What it shows: FDA acne drug rule.
- Zhong, Y., & Shahidi, F. (2011). Lipophilized epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) derivatives as novel antioxidants. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 59(12), 6526–6533. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf201050j
6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines
Claim: Tea polyphenol palmitate is used in all four ORY® product lines. |
Verification: Limited evidence. We found no CIR assessment of the ester or data on how much survives soapmaking.
| Product line | Typical level | How ORY® uses it |
| Skincare | 0.2–1% active; 0.05–0.5% as antioxidant | Facial oils, cleansing balms, creams, and balms. |
| Haircare | 0.2–0.5% | Hair oils, scalp serums, ends balms, and conditioner bars. |
| Handmade Soap | 0.1–0.3% of oils | Antioxidant in recipe oils. |
| Cosmetics | 0.1–0.5% | Lipsticks, balms, and oil-based foundations. |
Citations:
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap
- What it shows: FDA explains how soap is regulated.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap
7. Pros
Claim: Brings green tea antioxidants into oil-based products and helps protect oils. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Supported by lab studies.
Citations:
- Zhong, Y., & Shahidi, F. (2011). Lipophilized epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) derivatives as novel antioxidants. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 59(12), 6526–6533. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf201050j
- What it shows: Lab study.
- Zhong, Y., & Shahidi, F. (2011). Lipophilized epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) derivatives as novel antioxidants. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 59(12), 6526–6533. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf201050j
8. Cons
Claim: Evidence for the ester is lab-only, it has no CIR assessment, and it costs more. |
Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:
- Lab-only evidence. No human studies of the ester.
- No CIR assessment.
- Oil-only. Use green tea extract in water-based products.
- Cost. A specialty ingredient.
Citations:
- Zhong, Y., & Shahidi, F. (2011). Lipophilized epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) derivatives as novel antioxidants. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 59(12), 6526–6533. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf201050j
- What it shows: Lab study.
- Zhong, Y., & Shahidi, F. (2011). Lipophilized epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) derivatives as novel antioxidants. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 59(12), 6526–6533. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf201050j
9. Safety Notes
Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only. |
Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:
- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.
Citations:
- Zhong, Y., & Shahidi, F. (2011). Lipophilized epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) derivatives as novel antioxidants. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 59(12), 6526–6533. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf201050j
- What it shows: Lab study.
- Zhong, Y., & Shahidi, F. (2011). Lipophilized epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) derivatives as novel antioxidants. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 59(12), 6526–6533. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf201050j
10. Product-line notes
- ORY® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY® Haircare: Designed for scalp comfort and the look and feel of hair. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss. If you notice sudden shedding or a persistent itchy, flaking scalp, see a dermatologist.
- ORY® Handmade Soap: Handmade soap is naturally alkaline, and each bar may vary slightly in color, scent, and texture. Not intended to treat eczema or any skin condition.
- ORY® Cosmetics: Lip products are not intended to treat or protect chapped or cracked lips. Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.
11. References
Peer-reviewed research
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2019). Safety assessment of Camellia sinensis-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 38(3 Suppl), 48S–70S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581819889914
- Elmets, C. A., Singh, D., Tubesing, K., Matsui, M., Katiyar, S., & Mukhtar, H. (2001). Cutaneous photoprotection from ultraviolet injury by green tea polyphenols. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 44(3), 425–432. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11209110/
- Kwon, O. S., et al. (2007). Human hair growth enhancement in vitro by green tea epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). Phytomedicine, 14(7–8), 551–555. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17092697/
- Yoon, J. Y., Kwon, H. H., Min, S. U., Thiboutot, D. M., & Suh, D. H. (2013). Epigallocatechin-3-gallate improves acne in humans by modulating intracellular molecular targets and inhibiting P. acnes. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 133(2), 429–440. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23096708/
- Zhong, Y., & Shahidi, F. (2011). Lipophilized epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) derivatives as novel antioxidants. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 59(12), 6526–6533. https://doi.org/10.1021/jf201050j
Government and regulatory sources
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019, February 26). Sunscreen drug products for over-the-counter human use (proposed rule), 84 FR 6204. https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2019/02/26/2019-03019/sunscreen-drug-products-for-over-the-counter-human-use
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 333, Subpart D — Topical acne drug products for over-the-counter human use. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-333/subpart-D
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 310.527 — Drug products offered over-the-counter for external use as hair growers or for hair loss prevention. https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/310.527
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap
