Peptides

At ORY^®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about peptides. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.

How to read this page

Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews.

Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY^® uses.

Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly.

1. General Description and Role

Claim: Peptides are short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins such as collagen, elastin, and keratin. Each cosmetic peptide is designed for a specific job, so ORY^® treats peptides as a family and chooses the right one for the goal: firmer-looking skin, softer-looking expression lines, or stronger-feeling hair.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. Reviews describe several peptide types with supporting lab data and some human studies. The evidence varies widely by peptide: some have vehicle-controlled human studies, and many have only supplier data. Human studies are often small.

Citations:

- Gorouhi, F., & Maibach, H. I. (2009). Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 31(5), 327–345. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00490.x
  - What it shows: Review of topical peptides and the human evidence for each type.
- Schagen, S. K. (2017). Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics, 4(2), 16. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics4020016
  - What it shows: Review of peptide categories and the limits of the evidence, including small study sizes.

2. Composition and Production

Claim: Cosmetic peptides are made in the lab to exact sequences, often with a fatty-acid “tail” (such as palmitoyl) to help them work with skin. Main types include signal peptides (such as palmitoyl pentapeptide-4), neurotransmitter-affecting peptides (such as acetyl hexapeptide-8), and carrier peptides (such as copper tripeptide-1, GHK-Cu).

Verification: Supported. Peptide categories and manufacturing are well described in the review literature.

Citations:

- Gorouhi, F., & Maibach, H. I. (2009). Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 31(5), 327–345. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00490.x
  - What it shows: Describes signal, carrier, neurotransmitter-affecting, and enzyme-inhibiting peptides.
- Schagen, S. K. (2017). Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics, 4(2), 16. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics4020016
  - What it shows: Describes peptide design and delivery.

3. Skin Type Suitability

Claim: Peptides are gentle and suit all seven ORY^® skin types. They are a good choice for mature skin and for people who find retinoids or acids too strong.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. Peptides are generally well tolerated in published studies. Evidence of benefit is strongest for mature, photoaged skin.

Citations:

- Robinson, L. R., Fitzgerald, N. C., Doughty, D. G., Dawes, N. C., Berge, C. A., & Bissett, D. L. (2005). Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 27(3), 155–160. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00261.x
  - What it shows: Vehicle-controlled facial study in women with photoaged skin; well tolerated.
- Gorouhi, F., & Maibach, H. I. (2009). Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 31(5), 327–345. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00490.x
  - What it shows: Summary of tolerability across peptide studies.

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

Claim: In haircare, peptides and hydrolyzed proteins are used in conditioners, masks, and leave-in scalp products to help hair feel stronger and look fuller.

Verification: Limited evidence. A lab study found a copper peptide (AHK-Cu) lengthened human hair follicles kept alive in a dish, but lab results do not show hair growth in people. We found no published human studies for the scalp peptides ORY^® uses. ORY^® haircare products are not intended to grow hair or prevent hair loss.

Citations:

- Pyo, H. K., Yoo, H. G., Won, C. H., et al. (2007). The effect of tripeptide-copper complex on human hair growth in vitro. Archives of Pharmacal Research, 30(7), 834–839. https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02978833
  - What it shows: Lab study of AHK-Cu on isolated human hair follicles and cells; not a human trial.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 310.527 — Drug products offered over-the-counter for external use as hair growers or for hair loss prevention. https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/310.527
  - What it shows: FDA treats products marketed to grow hair or prevent hair loss as drugs.

5. Benefits

Claim: Peptides help skin look firmer and smoother, help soften the look of fine lines and expression lines, and are gentle enough for daily use.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. In a 12-week, vehicle-controlled, split-face study in women, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 improved the look of wrinkles and fine lines. In a small 30-day study of 10 women, a 10% acetyl hexapeptide-8 cream reduced the look of wrinkles around the eyes. Copper peptide (GHK-Cu) research is mostly lab and gene-expression work; ORY^® does not make wound-healing or scar claims.

Citations:

- Robinson, L. R., Fitzgerald, N. C., Doughty, D. G., Dawes, N. C., Berge, C. A., & Bissett, D. L. (2005). Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 27(3), 155–160. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00261.x
  - What it shows: 12-week vehicle-controlled study of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4.
- Blanes-Mira, C., Clemente, J., Jodas, G., et al. (2002). A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 24(5), 303–310. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00153.x
  - What it shows: Small 30-day study of acetyl hexapeptide-8 plus lab mechanism studies.
- Pickart, L., & Margolina, A. (2018). Regenerative and protective actions of the GHK-Cu peptide in the light of the new gene data. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(7), 1987. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms19071987
  - What it shows: Review of GHK-Cu gene-expression and lab data.

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines

Claim: Peptides are used in ORY^® Skincare, Haircare, and Cosmetics. They are not used in handmade soap.

Verification: Supported. Peptide bonds break down at the high pH and heat of soapmaking, and soap rinses off, so ORY^® does not use peptides there.

Product line	Typical level	How ORY^® uses it
Skincare	2–10% of supplier solution	Firming serums, eye creams, night creams, and neck creams.
Haircare	1–5% of supplier solution; 0.5–2% hydrolyzed proteins	Leave-in scalp products, strengthening conditioners, and masks.
Handmade Soap	Not used	Broken down by soap pH and heat.
Cosmetics	1–5% of supplier solution	Foundations, eye primers, lip treatments, and brow and lash conditioners.

Citations:

- Schagen, S. K. (2017). Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics, 4(2), 16. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics4020016
  - What it shows: Notes stability limits of peptides.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap
  - What it shows: FDA explains how soap is regulated.

7. Pros

Claim: Targeted, gentle, not known to increase sun sensitivity, and compatible with most other ingredients.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. Gentleness is supported across studies; the benefits depend on which peptide is used.

Citations:

- Gorouhi, F., & Maibach, H. I. (2009). Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 31(5), 327–345. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00490.x
  - What it shows: Tolerability and evidence by peptide type.

8. Cons

Claim: Peptides are costly, evidence varies by peptide, some peptides have limited ability to penetrate skin, and they need careful formulation.

Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:

- Variable evidence. Some peptides have human studies; many have only supplier data. Studies are often small.
- Penetration. Larger peptides may not reach deeper skin layers.
- Stability. Peptides break down at extreme pH and high heat.
- Copper peptides. Can discolor formulas and should not be combined with strong acids or high-strength vitamin C.
- Cost. Among the most expensive ingredients per gram.

Citations:

- Schagen, S. K. (2017). Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics, 4(2), 16. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics4020016
  - What it shows: Discusses small study sizes, penetration, and gaps in published evidence.

9. Safety Notes

Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only.

Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:

- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs.
- For external use only. Keep lash and brow products out of the eyes.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.

Citations:

- Gorouhi, F., & Maibach, H. I. (2009). Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 31(5), 327–345. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00490.x
  - What it shows: Tolerability data across published studies.

10. Product-line notes

- ORY^® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY^® Haircare: Designed for scalp comfort and the look and feel of hair. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss. If you notice sudden shedding or a persistent itchy, flaking scalp, see a dermatologist.
- ORY^® Cosmetics: Lip products are not intended to treat or protect chapped or cracked lips. Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.

11. References

Peer-reviewed research

- Blanes-Mira, C., Clemente, J., Jodas, G., et al. (2002). A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 24(5), 303–310. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00153.x
- Gorouhi, F., & Maibach, H. I. (2009). Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 31(5), 327–345. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00490.x
- Pickart, L., & Margolina, A. (2018). Regenerative and protective actions of the GHK-Cu peptide in the light of the new gene data. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(7), 1987. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms19071987
- Pyo, H. K., Yoo, H. G., Won, C. H., et al. (2007). The effect of tripeptide-copper complex on human hair growth in vitro. Archives of Pharmacal Research, 30(7), 834–839. https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02978833
- Robinson, L. R., Fitzgerald, N. C., Doughty, D. G., Dawes, N. C., Berge, C. A., & Bissett, D. L. (2005). Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 27(3), 155–160. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00261.x
- Schagen, S. K. (2017). Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics, 4(2), 16. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics4020016

Government and regulatory sources

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 310.527 — Drug products offered over-the-counter for external use as hair growers or for hair loss prevention. https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/310.527
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap

1. General Description and Role

2. Composition and Production

3. Skin Type Suitability

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

5. Benefits

6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines

7. Pros

8. Cons

9. Safety Notes

10. Product-line notes

11. References

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines