Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu)

At ORY®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about copper tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu). Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.

Please note: GHK-Cu has been studied for wound healing and tissue repair, which are medical uses, and most of the research is laboratory or small human studies. ORY® products are cosmetics and are not intended to heal wounds, treat scars, or grow hair.

How to read this page

Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews.

Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY® uses.

Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly.

1. General Description and Role

Claim: Copper tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a small peptide (glycyl-histidyl-lysine) bound to copper. In ORY® products, it helps skin look firmer, smoother, and more even.

Verification: Supported. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that tripeptide-1 and its metal salts, including copper tripeptide-1, are safe as used in cosmetics.

Citations:

    • Johnson, W., Jr., et al. (2018). Safety assessment of tripeptide-1, hexapeptide-12, their metal salts and fatty acyl derivatives, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 as used in cosmetics (including copper tripeptide-1). International Journal of Toxicology, 37(3 Suppl), 90S–102S (safe as used). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818807863
      • What it shows: CIR safety assessment (2018).
2. Composition and Production

Claim: GHK-Cu is made by peptide synthesis and bound to copper(II); it is blue and water-soluble. Strong acids, low-pH vitamin C, and strong chelators can strip the copper.

Verification: Supported. Its chemistry is documented in reviews and the CIR report.

Citations:

    • Pickart, L., & Margolina, A. (2018). Regenerative and protective actions of the GHK-Cu peptide in the light of the new gene data. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(7), 1987. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms19071987
      • What it shows: Review of GHK-Cu.
    • Johnson, W., Jr., et al. (2018). Safety assessment of tripeptide-1, hexapeptide-12, their metal salts and fatty acyl derivatives, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 as used in cosmetics (including copper tripeptide-1). International Journal of Toxicology, 37(3 Suppl), 90S–102S (safe as used). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818807863
      • What it shows: Describes chemistry.
3. Skin Type Suitability

Claim: GHK-Cu suits most skin types, including mature skin.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. A small pilot study compared a copper-peptide cream with other creams on skin structure. Most other data are gene-expression and lab studies.

Citations:

    • Abdulghani, A. A., Sherr, A., Shirin, S., Solodkina, G., Morales Tapia, E., Wolf, B., & Gottlieb, A. B. (1998). Effects of topical creams containing vitamin C, a copper-binding peptide cream and melatonin compared with tretinoin on the ultrastructure of normal skin: A pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Disease Management and Clinical Outcomes, 1(4), 136–141. https://doi.org/10.1016/S1088-3371(98)00011-4
      • What it shows: Small pilot clinical study.
    • Pickart, L., & Margolina, A. (2018). Regenerative and protective actions of the GHK-Cu peptide in the light of the new gene data. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(7), 1987. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms19071987
      • What it shows: Review (largely lab data).
    • Gorouhi, F., & Maibach, H. I. (2009). Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 31(5), 327–345. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00490.x
      • What it shows: Review of topical peptides.
4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

Claim: In haircare, GHK-Cu is used in scalp serums to support healthy-looking hair.

Verification: Limited evidence. A lab study found a copper tripeptide stimulated hair follicle growth in culture. Hair-growth claims are drug claims; ORY® does not make them.

Citations:

    • Pyo, H. K., Yoo, H. G., Won, C. H., et al. (2007). The effect of tripeptide-copper complex on human hair growth in vitro. Archives of Pharmacal Research, 30(7), 834–839. https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02978833
      • What it shows: Lab study.
    • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 310.527 — Drug products offered over-the-counter for external use as hair growers or for hair loss prevention. https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/310.527
      • What it shows: FDA hair-growth rule.
5. Benefits

Claim: GHK-Cu helps skin look firmer and smoother.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. Reviews describe effects on collagen-related genes and repair in lab studies. Scar, wound, and post-procedure claims are not cosmetic claims.

Citations:

    • Pickart, L., & Margolina, A. (2018). Regenerative and protective actions of the GHK-Cu peptide in the light of the new gene data. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(7), 1987. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms19071987
      • What it shows: Review.
    • Gorouhi, F., & Maibach, H. I. (2009). Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 31(5), 327–345. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00490.x
      • What it shows: Review.
6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines

Claim: GHK-Cu is used in ORY® Skincare, Haircare, and limited Cosmetics.

Verification: Supported. It breaks down in soap and can discolor it.

Product lineTypical levelHow ORY® uses it
Skincare0.05–0.5%Serums, eye creams, and neck creams.
Haircare0.05–0.2%Leave-on scalp serums.
Handmade SoapNot usedBreaks down at soap pH.
Cosmetics0.05–0.1%Eye and lip treatments (blue tint).

Citations:

    • Johnson, W., Jr., et al. (2018). Safety assessment of tripeptide-1, hexapeptide-12, their metal salts and fatty acyl derivatives, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 as used in cosmetics (including copper tripeptide-1). International Journal of Toxicology, 37(3 Suppl), 90S–102S (safe as used). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818807863
      • What it shows: Reported uses.
    • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
      • What it shows: FDA definition of soap; other bars are cosmetics.
7. Pros

Claim: A well-characterized peptide with a CIR safety conclusion.

Verification: Supported. Supported by CIR review.

Citations:

    • Johnson, W., Jr., et al. (2018). Safety assessment of tripeptide-1, hexapeptide-12, their metal salts and fatty acyl derivatives, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 as used in cosmetics (including copper tripeptide-1). International Journal of Toxicology, 37(3 Suppl), 90S–102S (safe as used). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818807863
      • What it shows: Safety.
8. Cons

Claim: GHK-Cu has limited large trials and formulation incompatibilities.

Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:

    • Limited large trials.
    • Incompatible with low-pH vitamin C, AHAs, and strong chelators.
    • Blue color.
    • Cost.

Citations:

    • Pickart, L., & Margolina, A. (2018). Regenerative and protective actions of the GHK-Cu peptide in the light of the new gene data. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(7), 1987. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms19071987
      • What it shows: Review.
9. Safety Notes

Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only.

Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:

    • Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
    • Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
    • For external use only. Avoid the eyes unless the product is made for the eye area.
    • If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.

Citations:

    • Johnson, W., Jr., et al. (2018). Safety assessment of tripeptide-1, hexapeptide-12, their metal salts and fatty acyl derivatives, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 as used in cosmetics (including copper tripeptide-1). International Journal of Toxicology, 37(3 Suppl), 90S–102S (safe as used). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818807863
      • What it shows: Safety conclusion.
10. Product-line notes
    • ORY® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
    • ORY® Haircare: Designed for the look and feel of hair and scalp comfort. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss. If you notice sudden or patchy hair loss, see a dermatologist.
    • ORY® Handmade Soap: GHK-Cu is not used in ORY® soap because it would rinse away or break down.
    • ORY® Cosmetics: Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.
11. References

Peer-reviewed research

    • Abdulghani, A. A., Sherr, A., Shirin, S., Solodkina, G., Morales Tapia, E., Wolf, B., & Gottlieb, A. B. (1998). Effects of topical creams containing vitamin C, a copper-binding peptide cream and melatonin compared with tretinoin on the ultrastructure of normal skin: A pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Disease Management and Clinical Outcomes, 1(4), 136–141. https://doi.org/10.1016/S1088-3371(98)00011-4
    • Gorouhi, F., & Maibach, H. I. (2009). Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 31(5), 327–345. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00490.x
    • Johnson, W., Jr., et al. (2018). Safety assessment of tripeptide-1, hexapeptide-12, their metal salts and fatty acyl derivatives, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 as used in cosmetics (including copper tripeptide-1). International Journal of Toxicology, 37(3 Suppl), 90S–102S (safe as used). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581818807863
    • Pickart, L., & Margolina, A. (2018). Regenerative and protective actions of the GHK-Cu peptide in the light of the new gene data. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 19(7), 1987. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms19071987
    • Pyo, H. K., Yoo, H. G., Won, C. H., et al. (2007). The effect of tripeptide-copper complex on human hair growth in vitro. Archives of Pharmacal Research, 30(7), 834–839. https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02978833

Government and regulatory sources

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