At ORY®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide MEA (a pseudo-ceramide). Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.
How to read this page Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews. Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY® uses. Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly. |
1. General Description and Role
Claim: Hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide MEA is a synthetic “pseudo-ceramide”: a lab-made lipid shaped to resemble the skin’s own ceramides. In ORY® products, it helps support the skin’s moisture barrier and helps skin feel soft and less dry. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. We found no Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) assessment of this specific ingredient. Its use rests on ceramide research: in a laboratory study, stratum corneum lipids restored the water-holding ability of damaged skin, and reviews describe ceramides as central to the skin barrier.
Citations:
- Imokawa, G., Akasaki, S., Hattori, M., & Yoshizuka, N. (1986). Selective recovery of deranged water-holding properties by stratum corneum lipids. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 87(6), 758–761. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Selective%20recovery%20of%20deranged%20water-holding%20properties%20by%20stratum%20corneum%20lipids
- What it shows: Lab study of stratum corneum lipids and water-holding.
- Uchida, Y., & Park, K. (2021). Ceramides in skin health and disease: An update. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 22(6), 853–866. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-021-00619-2
- What it shows: Review of ceramides.
- Imokawa, G., Akasaki, S., Hattori, M., & Yoshizuka, N. (1986). Selective recovery of deranged water-holding properties by stratum corneum lipids. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 87(6), 758–761. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Selective%20recovery%20of%20deranged%20water-holding%20properties%20by%20stratum%20corneum%20lipids
2. Composition and Production
Claim: It is a two-tailed amide lipid built from palmitic acid and a hydroxypropyl-ethanolamine head. It is a white waxy solid that melts at about 90–100 °C, carries no electrical charge (non-ionic), and dissolves only in a hot oil phase. |
Verification: Supported. Composition is from supplier data.
Citations:
- Uchida, Y., & Park, K. (2021). Ceramides in skin health and disease: An update. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 22(6), 853–866. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-021-00619-2
- What it shows: Describes ceramide structure (for comparison).
- Uchida, Y., & Park, K. (2021). Ceramides in skin health and disease: An update. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 22(6), 853–866. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-021-00619-2
3. Skin Type Suitability
Claim: It suits all skin types and is especially helpful for dry skin. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Dry and atopic skin has been found to contain fewer ceramides. ORY® products are not intended to treat eczema or atopic dermatitis.
Citations:
- Imokawa, G., Abe, A., Jin, K., Higaki, Y., Kawashima, M., & Hidano, A. (1991). Decreased level of ceramides in stratum corneum of atopic dermatitis: An etiologic factor in atopic dry skin? Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 96(4), 523–526. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12470233
- What it shows: Ceramide levels in atopic skin (a medical condition).
- Imokawa, G., Abe, A., Jin, K., Higaki, Y., Kawashima, M., & Hidano, A. (1991). Decreased level of ceramides in stratum corneum of atopic dermatitis: An etiologic factor in atopic dry skin? Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 96(4), 523–526. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12470233
4. Hair and Scalp Suitability
Claim: In haircare, it helps damaged hair feel smoother and softer, including in cationic conditioners. |
Verification: Limited evidence. We found no clinical study of this ingredient on hair. ORY® does not claim it repairs or strengthens hair.
Citations:
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
- What it shows: Review of hair cosmetics.
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
5. Benefits
Claim: It helps skin feel moisturized and supports the skin’s moisture barrier. |
Verification: Limited evidence. Evidence comes from ceramide biology and lab and animal studies, not trials of this ingredient in ORY® products. In mice, complete mixtures of barrier lipids supported barrier recovery better than a single lipid, so ORY® pairs it with cholesterol and fatty acids.
Citations:
- Imokawa, G., Akasaki, S., Hattori, M., & Yoshizuka, N. (1986). Selective recovery of deranged water-holding properties by stratum corneum lipids. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 87(6), 758–761. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Selective%20recovery%20of%20deranged%20water-holding%20properties%20by%20stratum%20corneum%20lipids
- What it shows: Lab study.
- Man, M. Q., Feingold, K. R., & Elias, P. M. (1993). Exogenous lipids influence permeability barrier recovery in acetone-treated murine skin. Archives of Dermatology, 129(6), 728–738. https://doi.org/10.1001/archderm.1993.01680270066008
- What it shows: Mouse study of barrier lipids.
- Imokawa, G., Akasaki, S., Hattori, M., & Yoshizuka, N. (1986). Selective recovery of deranged water-holding properties by stratum corneum lipids. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 87(6), 758–761. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Selective%20recovery%20of%20deranged%20water-holding%20properties%20by%20stratum%20corneum%20lipids
6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines
Claim: It is used in ORY® Skincare, Haircare, and Cosmetics, and in syndet and conditioner bars. |
Verification: Supported. It is not used in cold-process soap.
| Product line | Typical level | How ORY® uses it |
| Skincare | 0.1–1% | Barrier creams and lotions, night, eye, and hand creams. |
| Haircare | 0.05–0.5% | Conditioners, masks, and leave-ins. |
| Handmade Soap line | 0.1–0.3% | Syndet and conditioner bars only. |
| Cosmetics | 0.1–0.5% | Foundations, lip balms, and cream sticks. |
Citations:
- Uchida, Y., & Park, K. (2021). Ceramides in skin health and disease: An update. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 22(6), 853–866. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-021-00619-2
- What it shows: Barrier lipid use.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
- What it shows: FDA definition of soap; other bars are cosmetics.
- Uchida, Y., & Park, K. (2021). Ceramides in skin health and disease: An update. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 22(6), 853–866. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-021-00619-2
7. Pros
Claim: A stable, economical ceramide-like lipid that works in cationic conditioners. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Stability and compatibility are from supplier data.
Citations:
- Uchida, Y., & Park, K. (2021). Ceramides in skin health and disease: An update. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 22(6), 853–866. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-021-00619-2
- What it shows: Ceramide science.
- Uchida, Y., & Park, K. (2021). Ceramides in skin health and disease: An update. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 22(6), 853–866. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-021-00619-2
8. Cons
Claim: It has no CIR review and little product-specific clinical data. |
Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:
- No CIR review. Not individually assessed by CIR.
- Limited clinical data. Evidence is on ceramide biology.
- High melting point. Needs hot processing.
- Synthetic. Not accepted by COSMOS.
Citations:
- Uchida, Y., & Park, K. (2021). Ceramides in skin health and disease: An update. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 22(6), 853–866. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-021-00619-2
- What it shows: Ceramide science.
- Uchida, Y., & Park, K. (2021). Ceramides in skin health and disease: An update. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 22(6), 853–866. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-021-00619-2
9. Safety Notes
Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only. |
Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:
- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes unless the product is made for the eye area.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.
Citations:
- Uchida, Y., & Park, K. (2021). Ceramides in skin health and disease: An update. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 22(6), 853–866. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-021-00619-2
- What it shows: Ceramide science.
- Uchida, Y., & Park, K. (2021). Ceramides in skin health and disease: An update. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 22(6), 853–866. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-021-00619-2
10. Product-line notes
- ORY® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY® Haircare: Designed for the look and feel of hair and scalp comfort. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss.
- ORY® Handmade Soap line: This ingredient is used only in syndet and conditioner bars, which are cosmetics under FDA rules and list all of their ingredients. It is not used in cold-process soap.
- ORY® Cosmetics: Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.
11. References
Peer-reviewed research
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
- Imokawa, G., Abe, A., Jin, K., Higaki, Y., Kawashima, M., & Hidano, A. (1991). Decreased level of ceramides in stratum corneum of atopic dermatitis: An etiologic factor in atopic dry skin? Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 96(4), 523–526. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12470233
- Imokawa, G., Akasaki, S., Hattori, M., & Yoshizuka, N. (1986). Selective recovery of deranged water-holding properties by stratum corneum lipids. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 87(6), 758–761. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Selective%20recovery%20of%20deranged%20water-holding%20properties%20by%20stratum%20corneum%20lipids
- Man, M. Q., Feingold, K. R., & Elias, P. M. (1993). Exogenous lipids influence permeability barrier recovery in acetone-treated murine skin. Archives of Dermatology, 129(6), 728–738. https://doi.org/10.1001/archderm.1993.01680270066008
- Uchida, Y., & Park, K. (2021). Ceramides in skin health and disease: An update. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 22(6), 853–866. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-021-00619-2
Government and regulatory sources
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
