At ORY®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about bakuchiol. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.
How to read this page Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews. Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY® uses. Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly. |
1. General Description and Role
Claim: Bakuchiol is a plant-derived ingredient purified from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia (babchi). It is often called a “retinol alternative” because, in one randomized, double-blind study, a bakuchiol cream improved the look of wrinkles and uneven tone about as well as a retinol cream, with less scaling and stinging. It is not a form of vitamin A. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. In a 12-week randomized, double-blind study in adults, 0.5% bakuchiol cream applied twice daily and 0.5% retinol cream applied once daily both reduced wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistically significant difference between them; the retinol group reported more facial scaling and stinging. It is one small study of specific formulas, and the evidence base is much smaller than for retinol. We found no CIR safety assessment for bakuchiol.
Citations:
- Dhaliwal, S., Rybak, I., Ellis, S. R., et al. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 289–296. https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16918
- What it shows: Head-to-head human study of bakuchiol vs retinol creams over 12 weeks.
- Chaudhuri, R. K., & Bojanowski, K. (2014). Bakuchiol: A retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 36(3), 221–230. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12117
- What it shows: Lab gene-expression study showing retinol-like activity, plus a small 12-week human study of a bakuchiol product.
- Puyana, C., et al. (2022). Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: Systematic review of the literature. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.15420
- What it shows: Systematic review of published bakuchiol studies and their limits.
- Dhaliwal, S., Rybak, I., Ellis, S. R., et al. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 289–296. https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16918
2. Composition and Production
Claim: Bakuchiol is extracted from babchi seeds and purified to a high bakuchiol content, then dissolved in a carrier oil such as squalane or caprylic/capric triglyceride. Raw babchi seed oil contains psoralens, which can make skin react to sunlight; ORY® uses purified, psoralen-free bakuchiol only. |
Verification: Supported. The difference between purified bakuchiol and raw seed extracts is documented. Psoralens from this plant are phototoxic, which is why purity matters.
Citations:
- Afzal, S., et al. (2023). Finding the right bakuchiol: Choose wisely. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.15667
- What it shows: Explains how bakuchiol purity varies between suppliers and why psoralen content matters.
- Chaudhuri, R. K., & Bojanowski, K. (2014). Bakuchiol: A retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 36(3), 221–230. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12117
- What it shows: Describes bakuchiol’s structure and why it is chemically unrelated to retinol.
- Afzal, S., et al. (2023). Finding the right bakuchiol: Choose wisely. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.15667
3. Skin Type Suitability
Claim: Bakuchiol is well tolerated by most skin types. It is a gentle option for people who find retinol too strong, helps mature skin look smoother and more even, and is lightweight enough for oily and combination skin when delivered in squalane. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. A clinical study of a bakuchiol moisturizer in people with sensitive skin found it well tolerated, and the head-to-head study found less scaling and stinging than retinol. Published case reports show bakuchiol can cause allergic reactions in some people, so patch testing matters.
Citations:
- Draelos, Z. D., Gunt, H., Zeichner, J., & Levy, S. (2020). Clinical evaluation of a nature-based bakuchiol anti-aging moisturizer for sensitive skin. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 19(12), 1181–1183. https://jddonline.com/articles/clinical-evaluation-of-a-nature-based-bakuchiol-anti-aging-moisturizer-for-sensitive-skin-S1545961620P1181X/
- What it shows: Clinical evaluation of a bakuchiol moisturizer in people with sensitive skin.
- Dhaliwal, S., Rybak, I., Ellis, S. R., et al. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 289–296. https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16918
- What it shows: Less scaling and stinging than retinol in a 12-week study.
- Malinauskiene, L., et al. (2019). Bakuchiol—A new allergen in cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis. https://doi.org/10.1111/cod.13211
- What it shows: Case report of allergic contact dermatitis to bakuchiol in a cosmetic.
- Draelos, Z. D., Gunt, H., Zeichner, J., & Levy, S. (2020). Clinical evaluation of a nature-based bakuchiol anti-aging moisturizer for sensitive skin. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 19(12), 1181–1183. https://jddonline.com/articles/clinical-evaluation-of-a-nature-based-bakuchiol-anti-aging-moisturizer-for-sensitive-skin-S1545961620P1181X/
4. Hair and Scalp Suitability
Claim: In haircare, bakuchiol is used in leave-in scalp serums and hair oils for its antioxidant properties and gentle feel. |
Verification: Limited evidence. We found no published clinical study of bakuchiol on the scalp or hair. Our haircare use is based on its antioxidant activity in lab studies. ORY® haircare products are not intended to treat scalp conditions, control oil production, or grow hair or prevent hair loss.
Citations:
- Bluemke, A., Ring, A. P., Immeyer, J., et al. (2022). Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing – Experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 44(3), 377–393. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12784
- What it shows: Lab study of bakuchiol’s antioxidant and cell-protective activity.
- Bluemke, A., Ring, A. P., Immeyer, J., et al. (2022). Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing – Experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 44(3), 377–393. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12784
5. Benefits
Claim: Bakuchiol helps reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles, helps even the look of skin tone, provides antioxidant protection, and is gentle enough for daily use. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Wrinkle and tone improvements are supported by the 12-week head-to-head study and by a smaller study of a bakuchiol product. Antioxidant and anti-aging mechanisms come from lab studies. Bakuchiol is not known to increase sun sensitivity, but no study has proven it does not, so daily sunscreen is still recommended.
Citations:
- Dhaliwal, S., Rybak, I., Ellis, S. R., et al. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 289–296. https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16918
- What it shows: Reduced wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation in a randomized human study.
- Chaudhuri, R. K., & Bojanowski, K. (2014). Bakuchiol: A retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 36(3), 221–230. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12117
- What it shows: Small human study of a bakuchiol product showing improvements in lines and elasticity.
- Bluemke, A., Ring, A. P., Immeyer, J., et al. (2022). Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing – Experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 44(3), 377–393. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12784
- What it shows: Lab evidence for antioxidant and anti-aging activity at the cell level.
- Dhaliwal, S., Rybak, I., Ellis, S. R., et al. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 289–296. https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16918
6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines
Claim: Bakuchiol is used in leave-on skincare, hair oils and scalp serums, and skin-tint cosmetics. It is not used in handmade soap. |
Verification: Supported. Bakuchiol is an oil-soluble ingredient that works through leave-on contact. In soap it would be rinsed off quickly and exposed to high pH and heat, so ORY® does not use it there.
| Product line | Typical level | How ORY® uses it |
| Skincare | 0.5–2% bakuchiol | Facial oils, serums, night creams, and eye creams. |
| Haircare | 0.25–1% | Leave-in scalp serums and hair oils (not shampoos). |
| Handmade Soap | Not used | Rinse-off, high pH, and heat make it unsuitable. |
| Cosmetics | 0.25–1% | Skin-tint and serum foundations, tinted moisturizers, and lip care. |
Citations:
- Dhaliwal, S., Rybak, I., Ellis, S. R., et al. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 289–296. https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16918
- What it shows: The clinical study used 0.5% bakuchiol in a leave-on cream.
- Dhaliwal, S., Rybak, I., Ellis, S. R., et al. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 289–296. https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16918
7. Pros
Claim: A plant-derived, non-retinoid option for smoother, more even-looking skin, with less irritation than retinol in a head-to-head study. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Supported by the published head-to-head study and systematic review, though the evidence base is still small.
Citations:
- Dhaliwal, S., Rybak, I., Ellis, S. R., et al. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 289–296. https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16918
- What it shows: Less scaling and stinging than retinol.
- Puyana, C., et al. (2022). Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: Systematic review of the literature. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.15420
- What it shows: Overall summary of the evidence and its gaps.
- Dhaliwal, S., Rybak, I., Ellis, S. R., et al. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 289–296. https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16918
8. Cons
Claim: Bakuchiol costs more, has a smaller body of research than retinol, needs an oil base and light-protective packaging, and can cause allergic reactions in some people. |
Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:
- Smaller evidence base. Retinol has decades of research; bakuchiol has a handful of clinical studies.
- Cost. Purified bakuchiol is one of the more expensive ingredients per gram.
- Oil-soluble. Needs an oil phase or emulsion.
- Sensitive to light and air. ORY® uses amber or airless packaging.
- Allergy. Allergic contact dermatitis to bakuchiol has been reported.
- No pregnancy data. Bakuchiol has not been studied in pregnancy.
Citations:
- Puyana, C., et al. (2022). Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: Systematic review of the literature. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.15420
- What it shows: Notes the limited number and size of clinical studies.
- Malinauskiene, L., et al. (2019). Bakuchiol—A new allergen in cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis. https://doi.org/10.1111/cod.13211
- What it shows: Case report of bakuchiol allergy.
- Raison-Peyron, N., et al. (2020). A new case of contact dermatitis to bakuchiol in a cosmetic cream. Contact Dermatitis. https://doi.org/10.1111/cod.13387
- What it shows: Second published case of contact dermatitis from bakuchiol in a cream.
- Puyana, C., et al. (2022). Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: Systematic review of the literature. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.15420
9. Safety Notes
Claim: Patch test before use; use sunscreen daily. |
Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:
- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- Start every other day if you have sensitive skin, then increase as tolerated.
- Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.
Citations:
- Malinauskiene, L., et al. (2019). Bakuchiol—A new allergen in cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis. https://doi.org/10.1111/cod.13211
- What it shows: Documents that allergic reactions can occur.
- Malinauskiene, L., et al. (2019). Bakuchiol—A new allergen in cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis. https://doi.org/10.1111/cod.13211
10. Product-line notes
- ORY® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY® Haircare: Designed for scalp comfort and the look and feel of hair. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss. If you notice sudden shedding or a persistent itchy, flaking scalp, see a dermatologist.
- ORY® Cosmetics: Lip products are not intended to treat or protect chapped or cracked lips. Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.
11. References
Peer-reviewed research
- Afzal, S., et al. (2023). Finding the right bakuchiol: Choose wisely. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.15667
- Bluemke, A., Ring, A. P., Immeyer, J., et al. (2022). Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing – Experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 44(3), 377–393. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12784
- Chaudhuri, R. K., & Bojanowski, K. (2014). Bakuchiol: A retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 36(3), 221–230. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12117
- Dhaliwal, S., Rybak, I., Ellis, S. R., et al. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 289–296. https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16918
- Draelos, Z. D., Gunt, H., Zeichner, J., & Levy, S. (2020). Clinical evaluation of a nature-based bakuchiol anti-aging moisturizer for sensitive skin. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 19(12), 1181–1183. https://jddonline.com/articles/clinical-evaluation-of-a-nature-based-bakuchiol-anti-aging-moisturizer-for-sensitive-skin-S1545961620P1181X/
- Malinauskiene, L., et al. (2019). Bakuchiol—A new allergen in cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis. https://doi.org/10.1111/cod.13211
- Puyana, C., et al. (2022). Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: Systematic review of the literature. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.15420
- Raison-Peyron, N., et al. (2020). A new case of contact dermatitis to bakuchiol in a cosmetic cream. Contact Dermatitis. https://doi.org/10.1111/cod.13387
