At ORY®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about shea butter ethyl esters. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.
How to read this page Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews. Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY® uses. Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly. |
1. General Description and Role
Claim: Shea butter ethyl esters are a light, fast-absorbing liquid made from shea butter. In ORY® products, they give a silky, non-greasy feel similar to silicones and help skin and hair feel soft and smooth. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. We found no Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) assessment of shea butter ethyl esters specifically. CIR has found shea butter and other shea-derived ingredients safe, and has found many related alkyl esters safe, but this ingredient has not been reviewed on its own.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
- What it shows: CIR safety assessment of shea-derived ingredients (does not include the ethyl esters).
- Fiume, M. M., et al. (2015). Safety assessment of alkyl esters as used in cosmetics (including cetearyl olivate). International Journal of Toxicology, 34(2 Suppl). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581815594027
- What it shows: CIR safety assessment of alkyl esters (a related class).
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
2. Composition and Production
Claim: Shea butter ethyl esters are made by reacting shea butter with ethanol, which turns its fats into light ethyl esters. Part of shea’s unsaponifiable fraction (triterpene esters, tocopherols, and plant sterols) is carried over. |
Verification: Supported. The composition described here comes from supplier data. Shea’s triterpene esters are well characterized.
Citations:
- Akihisa, T., Kojima, N., Kikuchi, T., Yasukawa, K., Tokuda, H., Masters, E. T., Manosroi, A., & Manosroi, J. (2010). Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science, 59(6), 273–280. https://doi.org/10.5650/jos.59.273
- What it shows: Characterizes shea triterpene esters.
- Akihisa, T., Kojima, N., Kikuchi, T., Yasukawa, K., Tokuda, H., Masters, E. T., Manosroi, A., & Manosroi, J. (2010). Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science, 59(6), 273–280. https://doi.org/10.5650/jos.59.273
3. Skin Type Suitability
Claim: Shea butter ethyl esters suit most skin types, including oily and combination skin, because they feel light and non-greasy. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. We found no clinical studies of this ingredient on specific skin types. Suitability is based on its light feel and the safety data for shea.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
- What it shows: Safety data for shea.
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
4. Hair and Scalp Suitability
Claim: In haircare, shea butter ethyl esters add light slip and shine and help reduce the look of frizz, as a plant-based alternative to silicones. |
Verification: Supported. Reviews describe emollients that coat the hair surface to improve feel and shine. This is a cosmetic effect.
Citations:
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
- What it shows: Review of hair cosmetics.
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
5. Benefits
Claim: Shea butter ethyl esters help skin feel soft and smooth and give products a silky, non-greasy feel. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Emollients help soften dry skin. In a lab study, triterpene esters isolated from shea fat showed anti-inflammatory activity; we found no human study of shea butter ethyl esters for skin calming, so ORY® does not make that claim.
Citations:
- Lodén, M. (2003). Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(11), 771–788. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304110-00005
- What it shows: Review of emollients and moisturizers.
- Akihisa, T., Kojima, N., Kikuchi, T., Yasukawa, K., Tokuda, H., Masters, E. T., Manosroi, A., & Manosroi, J. (2010). Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science, 59(6), 273–280. https://doi.org/10.5650/jos.59.273
- What it shows: Lab and animal study of isolated shea triterpenes.
- Lodén, M. (2003). Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(11), 771–788. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304110-00005
6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines
Claim: Shea butter ethyl esters are used in ORY® Skincare, Haircare, and Cosmetics, and in small amounts as a soap superfat. |
Verification: Supported. As esters, they break down in lye, so they are added only at trace as a small superfat.
| Product line | Typical level | How ORY® uses it |
| Skincare | 2–20% | Serums, light lotions and creams, primers, dry body oils, and cleansing oils. |
| Haircare | 1–10% | Silicone-free hair serums, leave-ins, and conditioners. |
| Handmade Soap | 1–3% superfat | Added at trace only. |
| Cosmetics | 2–15% | Foundations, primers, lip oils and glosses, and cream blush. |
Citations:
- Fiume, M. M., et al. (2015). Safety assessment of alkyl esters as used in cosmetics (including cetearyl olivate). International Journal of Toxicology, 34(2 Suppl). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581815594027
- What it shows: Esters as a class.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
- What it shows: FDA definition of soap; other bars are cosmetics.
- Fiume, M. M., et al. (2015). Safety assessment of alkyl esters as used in cosmetics (including cetearyl olivate). International Journal of Toxicology, 34(2 Suppl). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581815594027
7. Pros
Claim: A plant-derived, silicone-like emollient made from shea. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Its feel is well documented by suppliers; it has not been individually reviewed by CIR.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
- What it shows: Safety data for shea.
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
8. Cons
Claim: Shea butter ethyl esters cost more than common oils, give little occlusion, and lack a CIR review of their own. |
Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:
- Cost. Higher than caprylic/capric triglyceride.
- Light. Gives little occlusion; pair with butters for very dry skin.
- Soap. Superfat only.
- No CIR review. Not individually assessed by CIR.
- Nut source. Patch test if you have a shea or tree-nut allergy.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
- What it shows: Shea safety data.
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
9. Safety Notes
Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only. |
Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:
- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- If you have a shea or tree-nut allergy, patch test carefully or ask a healthcare provider before use.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes unless the product is made for the eye area.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
- What it shows: Shea safety data.
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
10. Product-line notes
- ORY® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY® Haircare: Designed for the look and feel of hair and scalp comfort. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss.
- ORY® Handmade Soap: Shea butter ethyl esters are used only as a small superfat added at trace. Handmade soap is naturally alkaline, and each bar may vary slightly. Not intended to treat eczema or any skin condition.
- ORY® Cosmetics: Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.
11. References
Peer-reviewed research
- Akihisa, T., Kojima, N., Kikuchi, T., Yasukawa, K., Tokuda, H., Masters, E. T., Manosroi, A., & Manosroi, J. (2010). Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science, 59(6), 273–280. https://doi.org/10.5650/jos.59.273
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of Butyrospermum parkii (shea)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(1 Suppl), 82S–95S. https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818231224230
- Fiume, M. M., et al. (2015). Safety assessment of alkyl esters as used in cosmetics (including cetearyl olivate). International Journal of Toxicology, 34(2 Suppl). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581815594027
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
- Lodén, M. (2003). Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(11), 771–788. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304110-00005
Government and regulatory sources
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
