Glycolic Acid

At ORY^®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about glycolic acid. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.

1. General Description and Role

Verification: Supported. Glycolic acid’s exfoliating action is well documented. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel found it safe in consumer products at 10% or less with a final pH of 3.5 or higher, when formulated to avoid increasing sun sensitivity or when directions include daily sun protection. FDA recommends a “Sunburn Alert” on AHA products.

Citations:

• • Andersen, F. A. (Ed.). (1998). Final report on the safety assessment of glycolic acid, ammonium, calcium, potassium, and sodium glycolates, methyl, ethyl, propyl, and butyl glycolates, and lactic acid, ammonium, calcium, potassium, sodium, and TEA-lactates, methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, and butyl lactates, and lauryl, myristyl, and cetyl lactates. International Journal of Toxicology, 17(Suppl 1), 1–241. https://doi.org/10.1177/109158189801700101
    • What it shows: CIR safety review setting the 10% / pH 3.5 limits for consumer products.
  • Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: Classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135–142. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S9042
    • What it shows: Review of how hydroxy acids work and their effect on sun sensitivity.
  • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (including the 2005 guidance, Labeling for Cosmetics Containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids). https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/alpha-hydroxy-acids
    • What it shows: FDA’s recommended AHA sun-sensitivity labeling and research summary.

2. Composition and Production

Verification: Supported. Molecular size, penetration, and pH-dependent activity are well described.

Citations:

• • Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: Classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135–142. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S9042
    • What it shows: Explains the classification and pH-dependent activity of hydroxy acids.
  • Tang, S. C., & Yang, J. H. (2018). Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin. Molecules, 23(4), 863. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29642579/
    • What it shows: Review of AHA mechanisms and effects on skin.

3. Skin Type Suitability

Verification: Supported. Its benefits and irritation potential are documented in reviews and the CIR report. Suitability depends on strength, pH, and how often it is used.

Citations:

• • Tang, S. C., & Yang, J. H. (2018). Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin. Molecules, 23(4), 863. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29642579/
    • What it shows: Summarizes benefits and irritation of AHAs.
  • Andersen, F. A. (Ed.). (1998). Final report on the safety assessment of glycolic acid, ammonium, calcium, potassium, and sodium glycolates, methyl, ethyl, propyl, and butyl glycolates, and lactic acid, ammonium, calcium, potassium, sodium, and TEA-lactates, methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, and butyl lactates, and lauryl, myristyl, and cetyl lactates. International Journal of Toxicology, 17(Suppl 1), 1–241. https://doi.org/10.1177/109158189801700101
    • What it shows: Irritation findings and the conditions for safe use.

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

Verification: Limited evidence. We found no published clinical studies of glycolic acid on the scalp or hair fiber. Our haircare claims are based on its known exfoliating action and on general hair science about low-pH rinses. ORY^® haircare products are not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to grow hair or prevent hair loss.

Citations:

• • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 358, Subpart H — Drug products for the control of dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-358/subpart-H
    • What it shows: FDA treats anti-dandruff products as drugs with a specific list of approved actives, which does not include glycolic acid.

5. Benefits

Verification: Supported, with caveats. A small clinical and biopsy study found six months of 25% AHA lotion increased the thickness of the living skin layer and improved collagen and other signs in photoaged skin. That strength is higher than what ORY^® uses in consumer products, so results at lower strengths may be milder.

Citations:

• • Ditre, C. M., Griffin, T. D., Murphy, G. F., et al. (1996). Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: A pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(2 Pt 1), 187–195. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8642081/
    • What it shows: Clinical and biopsy study of 25% AHA lotions over six months.
  • Tang, S. C., & Yang, J. H. (2018). Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin. Molecules, 23(4), 863. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29642579/
    • What it shows: Review of exfoliating, anti-aging, and tone-evening effects.

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines

Verification: Supported. Glycolic acid only works while it stays acidic. Lye in soap neutralizes it into sodium glycolate, so it cannot exfoliate in a bar. ORY^® consumer leave-on products follow the CIR limits of 10% or less at pH 3.5 or higher.

Citations:

• • Andersen, F. A. (Ed.). (1998). Final report on the safety assessment of glycolic acid, ammonium, calcium, potassium, and sodium glycolates, methyl, ethyl, propyl, and butyl glycolates, and lactic acid, ammonium, calcium, potassium, sodium, and TEA-lactates, methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, and butyl lactates, and lauryl, myristyl, and cetyl lactates. International Journal of Toxicology, 17(Suppl 1), 1–241. https://doi.org/10.1177/109158189801700101
    • What it shows: Concentration and pH limits for consumer products.
  • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap
    • What it shows: FDA explains how soap is regulated.

7. Pros

Verification: Supported. Supported by clinical and review literature.

Citations:

• • Tang, S. C., & Yang, J. H. (2018). Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin. Molecules, 23(4), 863. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29642579/
    • What it shows: Review of benefits.
  • Ditre, C. M., Griffin, T. D., Murphy, G. F., et al. (1996). Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: A pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(2 Pt 1), 187–195. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8642081/
    • What it shows: Clinical evidence for anti-aging effects.

8. Cons

Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:

• • Sun sensitivity. An FDA-sponsored study found four weeks of glycolic acid use increased skin’s sensitivity to UV damage; the effect went away about a week after stopping.
  • Irritation. Stinging, redness, and peeling are more likely at higher strengths or lower pH.
  • Not first choice for sensitive skin. Lactic acid is gentler.
  • Layering. Using it with retinoids, vitamin C, or other acids in the same routine can overwhelm the skin barrier.
  • No soap use. Lye neutralizes it.

Citations:

• • Kaidbey, K., et al. (2003). Topical glycolic acid enhances photodamage by ultraviolet light. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine, 19(1), 21–27. https://doi.org/10.1034/j.1600-0781.2003.00013.x
    • What it shows: Human study: glycolic acid increased UV-induced damage, which reversed after stopping.
  • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (including the 2005 guidance, Labeling for Cosmetics Containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids). https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/alpha-hydroxy-acids
    • What it shows: FDA summary of sun-sensitivity research and the recommended Sunburn Alert.

9. Safety Notes

Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:

• • Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily while using this product and for a week afterwards.
  • Start two to three times a week and increase as tolerated.
  • Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
  • Do not use on broken, sunburned, or irritated skin. Avoid the eyes.
  • Stop use if persistent burning, redness, or peeling occurs.
  • If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.

Citations:

• • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (including the 2005 guidance, Labeling for Cosmetics Containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids). https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/alpha-hydroxy-acids
    • What it shows: Source of the recommended sun-protection statement.

10. Product-line notes

• • ORY^® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
  • ORY^® Haircare: Designed for scalp comfort and the look and feel of hair. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss. If you notice sudden shedding or a persistent itchy, flaking scalp, see a dermatologist.
  • ORY^® Cosmetics: Lip products are not intended to treat or protect chapped or cracked lips. Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.

11. References

Peer-reviewed research

• • Andersen, F. A. (Ed.). (1998). Final report on the safety assessment of glycolic acid, ammonium, calcium, potassium, and sodium glycolates, methyl, ethyl, propyl, and butyl glycolates, and lactic acid, ammonium, calcium, potassium, sodium, and TEA-lactates, methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, and butyl lactates, and lauryl, myristyl, and cetyl lactates. International Journal of Toxicology, 17(Suppl 1), 1–241. https://doi.org/10.1177/109158189801700101
  • Ditre, C. M., Griffin, T. D., Murphy, G. F., et al. (1996). Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: A pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(2 Pt 1), 187–195. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8642081/
  • Kaidbey, K., et al. (2003). Topical glycolic acid enhances photodamage by ultraviolet light. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine, 19(1), 21–27. https://doi.org/10.1034/j.1600-0781.2003.00013.x
  • Kornhauser, A., Coelho, S. G., & Hearing, V. J. (2010). Applications of hydroxy acids: Classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 3, 135–142. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S9042
  • Tang, S. C., & Yang, J. H. (2018). Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin. Molecules, 23(4), 863. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29642579/

Government and regulatory sources

• • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (including the 2005 guidance, Labeling for Cosmetics Containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids). https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/alpha-hydroxy-acids
  • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap
  • U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 358, Subpart H — Drug products for the control of dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-358/subpart-H