At ORY®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about willow bark extract. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.
How to read this page Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews. Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY® uses. Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly. |
1. General Description and Role
Claim: Willow bark extract comes from the bark of the white willow (Salix alba). It contains salicin and polyphenols. In ORY® products, it helps skin feel soothed and look smoother and more refined. It is not a substitute for salicylic acid. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Clinical research on willow bark has focused on extracts taken by mouth for pain. In the body, salicin is converted to salicylic acid, but there is little evidence that this happens meaningfully in skin.
Citations:
- Shara, M., & Stohs, S. J. (2015). Efficacy and safety of white willow bark (Salix alba) extracts. Phytotherapy Research, 29(8), 1112–1116. https://doi.org/10.1002/ptr.5377
- What it shows: Review of willow bark efficacy and safety.
- Shara, M., & Stohs, S. J. (2015). Efficacy and safety of white willow bark (Salix alba) extracts. Phytotherapy Research, 29(8), 1112–1116. https://doi.org/10.1002/ptr.5377
2. Composition and Production
Claim: Willow bark extract is made from dried bark with water, glycerin, or alcohol and is standardized to salicin. It also contains tannins and flavonoids. |
Verification: Supported. Willow bark chemistry is well documented. Salicin is a different compound from salicylic acid, the ingredient used in acne and exfoliating products.
Citations:
- Shara, M., & Stohs, S. J. (2015). Efficacy and safety of white willow bark (Salix alba) extracts. Phytotherapy Research, 29(8), 1112–1116. https://doi.org/10.1002/ptr.5377
- What it shows: Describes willow bark compounds.
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: A comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765
- What it shows: Review of salicylic acid, for comparison.
- Shara, M., & Stohs, S. J. (2015). Efficacy and safety of white willow bark (Salix alba) extracts. Phytotherapy Research, 29(8), 1112–1116. https://doi.org/10.1002/ptr.5377
3. Skin Type Suitability
Claim: Willow bark extract suits oily, combination, and normal skin. People with aspirin or salicylate allergy should avoid it. |
Verification: Limited evidence. We found no cosmetic clinical studies by skin type. CIR has begun reviewing willow ingredients; its September 2025 literature review noted lab tests predicting skin sensitization and a case of severe allergy linked to a willow supplement. CIR has not yet reached a conclusion.
Citations:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2025, September). Safety assessment of Salix alba (willow)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics (scientific literature review; no conclusion yet). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/SLR_Willow_092025.pdf
- What it shows: CIR literature review in progress.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2025, September). Safety assessment of Salix alba (willow)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics (scientific literature review; no conclusion yet). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/SLR_Willow_092025.pdf
4. Hair and Scalp Suitability
Claim: In haircare, willow bark extract helps the scalp feel soothed and clean. |
Verification: Limited evidence. We found no clinical studies of willow bark on the scalp. Willow bark is not an FDA-approved dandruff ingredient, and ORY® haircare products are not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions.
Citations:
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 358, Subpart H — Drug products for the control of dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-358/subpart-H
- What it shows: FDA dandruff actives list, which includes salicylic acid but not willow bark.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 358, Subpart H — Drug products for the control of dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-358/subpart-H
5. Benefits
Claim: Willow bark extract helps skin feel soothed and look smoother. |
Verification: Limited evidence. We found no controlled clinical trials of topical willow bark extract in cosmetics. Salicylic acid is an FDA acne drug ingredient; willow bark is not, and ORY® does not make acne claims for willow bark products.
Citations:
- Shara, M., & Stohs, S. J. (2015). Efficacy and safety of white willow bark (Salix alba) extracts. Phytotherapy Research, 29(8), 1112–1116. https://doi.org/10.1002/ptr.5377
- What it shows: Evidence is mainly oral.
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: A comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765
- What it shows: Salicylic acid evidence, which does not transfer to willow bark.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 333, Subpart D — Topical acne drug products for over-the-counter human use. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-333/subpart-D
- What it shows: FDA acne drug rule.
- Shara, M., & Stohs, S. J. (2015). Efficacy and safety of white willow bark (Salix alba) extracts. Phytotherapy Research, 29(8), 1112–1116. https://doi.org/10.1002/ptr.5377
6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines
Claim: Willow bark extract is used in all four ORY® product lines. |
Verification: Limited evidence. CIR has not yet reached a safety conclusion for willow ingredients. ORY® will review its use when CIR issues its report. We found no data on how willow bark compounds behave in soapmaking.
| Product line | Typical level | How ORY® uses it |
| Skincare | 1–5% extract | Toners, serums, calming creams, cleansers, and masks. |
| Haircare | 1–3% | Shampoos and scalp serums for sensitive scalps. |
| Handmade Soap | 1–2% extract; about 1 tsp powder per lb of oils | Extract or bark powder added at trace. |
| Cosmetics | 0.5–2% | Foundations and primers. |
Citations:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2025, September). Safety assessment of Salix alba (willow)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics (scientific literature review; no conclusion yet). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/SLR_Willow_092025.pdf
- What it shows: CIR review status.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap
- What it shows: FDA explains how soap is regulated.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2025, September). Safety assessment of Salix alba (willow)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics (scientific literature review; no conclusion yet). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/SLR_Willow_092025.pdf
7. Pros
Claim: A gentle botanical with a long traditional history. |
Verification: Limited evidence. Cosmetic evidence is limited.
Citations:
- Shara, M., & Stohs, S. J. (2015). Efficacy and safety of white willow bark (Salix alba) extracts. Phytotherapy Research, 29(8), 1112–1116. https://doi.org/10.1002/ptr.5377
- What it shows: Review.
- Shara, M., & Stohs, S. J. (2015). Efficacy and safety of white willow bark (Salix alba) extracts. Phytotherapy Research, 29(8), 1112–1116. https://doi.org/10.1002/ptr.5377
8. Cons
Claim: Willow bark is not salicylic acid, has little topical evidence, and can cause allergy in salicylate-sensitive people. |
Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:
- Not salicylic acid. It does not provide the same exfoliating or acne-fighting effect.
- Limited evidence. Clinical research is mostly on oral use for pain.
- Allergy. Salicylate-sensitive people may react.
- Pending review. CIR has not finished its safety assessment.
Citations:
- Shara, M., & Stohs, S. J. (2015). Efficacy and safety of white willow bark (Salix alba) extracts. Phytotherapy Research, 29(8), 1112–1116. https://doi.org/10.1002/ptr.5377
- What it shows: Evidence scope.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2025, September). Safety assessment of Salix alba (willow)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics (scientific literature review; no conclusion yet). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/SLR_Willow_092025.pdf
- What it shows: Review status.
- Shara, M., & Stohs, S. J. (2015). Efficacy and safety of white willow bark (Salix alba) extracts. Phytotherapy Research, 29(8), 1112–1116. https://doi.org/10.1002/ptr.5377
9. Safety Notes
Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only. |
Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:
- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- If you are allergic to aspirin or other salicylates, do not use this product.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes. Do not use on broken or seriously damaged skin.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.
Citations:
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2025, September). Safety assessment of Salix alba (willow)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics (scientific literature review; no conclusion yet). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/SLR_Willow_092025.pdf
- What it shows: Safety data.
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2025, September). Safety assessment of Salix alba (willow)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics (scientific literature review; no conclusion yet). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/SLR_Willow_092025.pdf
10. Product-line notes
- ORY® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY® Haircare: Designed for scalp comfort and the look and feel of hair. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss. If you notice sudden shedding or a persistent itchy, flaking scalp, see a dermatologist.
- ORY® Handmade Soap: Handmade soap is naturally alkaline, and each bar may vary slightly in color, scent, and texture. Not intended to treat eczema or any skin condition.
- ORY® Cosmetics: Lip products are not intended to treat or protect chapped or cracked lips. Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.
11. References
Peer-reviewed research
- Arif, T. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: A comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 455–461. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S84765
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review. (2025, September). Safety assessment of Salix alba (willow)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics (scientific literature review; no conclusion yet). https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/SLR_Willow_092025.pdf
- Shara, M., & Stohs, S. J. (2015). Efficacy and safety of white willow bark (Salix alba) extracts. Phytotherapy Research, 29(8), 1112–1116. https://doi.org/10.1002/ptr.5377
Government and regulatory sources
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 333, Subpart D — Topical acne drug products for over-the-counter human use. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-333/subpart-D
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR Part 358, Subpart H — Drug products for the control of dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-358/subpart-H
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap
