At ORY®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about hydrolyzed keratin. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.
Animal-derived: ORY® hydrolyzed keratin comes from sheep’s wool or poultry feathers and is not vegan. Hydrolyzed rice or oat protein is the plant-based alternative.
How to read this page Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews. Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY® uses. Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly. |
1. General Description and Role
Claim: Hydrolyzed keratin is keratin protein broken into small peptides. In ORY® products, it helps damaged hair feel stronger, smoother, and shinier and helps nails and skin feel conditioned. |
Verification: Supported. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that keratin and keratin-derived ingredients, including hydrolyzed keratin, are safe as used.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2021). Safety assessment of keratin and keratin-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 40(2 Suppl), 36S–51S (safe as used). https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818211013019
- What it shows: CIR safety assessment (2021).
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2021). Safety assessment of keratin and keratin-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 40(2 Suppl), 36S–51S (safe as used). https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818211013019
2. Composition and Production
Claim: It is made by breaking down wool or feather keratin with enzymes, acid, or alkali and is standardized by molecular weight. It is rich in the sulfur amino acid cysteine. |
Verification: Supported. Its chemistry is documented in the CIR report and protein-cosmetics literature.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2021). Safety assessment of keratin and keratin-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 40(2 Suppl), 36S–51S (safe as used). https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818211013019
- What it shows: Describes chemistry.
- Secchi, G. (2008). Role of protein in cosmetics. Clinics in Dermatology, 26(4), 321–325. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18691510/
- What it shows: Review of protein in cosmetics.
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2021). Safety assessment of keratin and keratin-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 40(2 Suppl), 36S–51S (safe as used). https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818211013019
3. Skin Type Suitability
Claim: Hydrolyzed keratin suits all skin types and is used in nail, hand, and film-forming products. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. A study found topically applied wool keratin peptides improved skin hydration measures. Hydrolyzed wheat protein in a facial soap caused serious wheat allergy in Japan, including anaphylaxis. This is why ORY® uses low-molecular-weight proteins and keeps levels low in facial cleansers.
Citations:
- Barba, C., Méndez, S., Roddick-Lanzilotta, A., Kelly, R., Parra, J. L., & Coderch, L. (2008). Cosmetic effectiveness of topically applied hydrolysed keratin peptides and lipids derived from wool. Skin Research and Technology, 14(2), 243–248. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0846.2007.00280.x
- What it shows: Study of topical keratin peptides.
- Fukutomi, Y., Itagaki, Y., Taniguchi, M., et al. (2011). Rhinoconjunctival sensitization to hydrolyzed wheat protein in facial soap can induce wheat-dependent exercise-induced anaphylaxis. Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, 127(2), 531–533. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Rhinoconjunctival%20sensitization%20to%20hydrolyzed%20wheat%20protein%20in%20facial%20soap%20can%20induce%20wheat-dependent%20exercise-induced%20anaphylaxis
- What it shows: Wheat protein soap allergy report.
- Barba, C., Méndez, S., Roddick-Lanzilotta, A., Kelly, R., Parra, J. L., & Coderch, L. (2008). Cosmetic effectiveness of topically applied hydrolysed keratin peptides and lipids derived from wool. Skin Research and Technology, 14(2), 243–248. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0846.2007.00280.x
4. Hair and Scalp Suitability
Claim: In haircare, hydrolyzed keratin helps damaged hair feel stronger and smoother and look shinier. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Laboratory studies on hair fibers found keratin peptides improved fiber strength, moisture, and resistance to damage. These are lab tests on hair samples.
Citations:
- Roddick-Lanzilotta, A., Kelly, R., Scott, S., & Chahal, S. (2007). New keratin isolates: Actives for natural hair protection. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 58(4), 405–411. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17728941/
- What it shows: Hair fiber study.
- Villa, A. L. V., Aragão, M. R. S., dos Santos, E. P., et al. (2013). Feather keratin hydrolysates obtained from microbial keratinases: Effect on hair fiber. BMC Biotechnology, 13, 15. https://doi.org/10.1186/1472-6750-13-15
- What it shows: Lab study of feather keratin on hair.
- Roddick-Lanzilotta, A., Kelly, R., Scott, S., & Chahal, S. (2007). New keratin isolates: Actives for natural hair protection. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 58(4), 405–411. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17728941/
5. Benefits
Claim: Hydrolyzed keratin helps hair feel stronger and smoother and helps reduce the look of damage. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Evidence comes from hair-fiber lab tests and protein-cosmetics research.
Citations:
- Roddick-Lanzilotta, A., Kelly, R., Scott, S., & Chahal, S. (2007). New keratin isolates: Actives for natural hair protection. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 58(4), 405–411. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17728941/
- What it shows: Hair fiber study.
- Secchi, G. (2008). Role of protein in cosmetics. Clinics in Dermatology, 26(4), 321–325. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18691510/
- What it shows: Review.
- Roddick-Lanzilotta, A., Kelly, R., Scott, S., & Chahal, S. (2007). New keratin isolates: Actives for natural hair protection. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 58(4), 405–411. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17728941/
6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines
Claim: Hydrolyzed keratin is used in ORY® Haircare, Skincare, and Cosmetics, and in syndet, liquid, and shampoo bars. |
Verification: Supported. In cold-process soap it only partly survives.
| Product line | Typical level | How ORY® uses it |
| Skincare | 0.5–2% | Nail and cuticle treatments, hand creams, and serums. |
| Haircare | 0.5–3% | Conditioners, masks, leave-ins, and shampoos. |
| Handmade Soap | 0.5–2% | Syndet, liquid, and shampoo bars; up to 1% in facial cleansers. |
| Cosmetics | 0.5–1% | Mascaras, brow gels, and nail treatments. |
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2021). Safety assessment of keratin and keratin-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 40(2 Suppl), 36S–51S (safe as used). https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818211013019
- What it shows: Reported uses.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
- What it shows: FDA definition of soap; other bars are cosmetics.
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2021). Safety assessment of keratin and keratin-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 40(2 Suppl), 36S–51S (safe as used). https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818211013019
7. Pros
Claim: A hair-matching protein with a CIR safety conclusion. |
Verification: Supported. Supported by CIR review and hair-fiber studies.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2021). Safety assessment of keratin and keratin-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 40(2 Suppl), 36S–51S (safe as used). https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818211013019
- What it shows: Safety.
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2021). Safety assessment of keratin and keratin-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 40(2 Suppl), 36S–51S (safe as used). https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818211013019
8. Cons
Claim: Hydrolyzed keratin is animal-derived and can make hair stiff if overused. |
Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:
- Not vegan.
- Protein overload. Can stiffen hair; alternate with moisture.
- Facial cleansers. Keep levels low.
- Preservation. Protein solutions need strong preservation.
Citations:
- Fukutomi, Y., Itagaki, Y., Taniguchi, M., et al. (2011). Rhinoconjunctival sensitization to hydrolyzed wheat protein in facial soap can induce wheat-dependent exercise-induced anaphylaxis. Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, 127(2), 531–533. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Rhinoconjunctival%20sensitization%20to%20hydrolyzed%20wheat%20protein%20in%20facial%20soap%20can%20induce%20wheat-dependent%20exercise-induced%20anaphylaxis
- What it shows: Protein allergy in cleansers.
- Fukutomi, Y., Itagaki, Y., Taniguchi, M., et al. (2011). Rhinoconjunctival sensitization to hydrolyzed wheat protein in facial soap can induce wheat-dependent exercise-induced anaphylaxis. Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, 127(2), 531–533. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Rhinoconjunctival%20sensitization%20to%20hydrolyzed%20wheat%20protein%20in%20facial%20soap%20can%20induce%20wheat-dependent%20exercise-induced%20anaphylaxis
9. Safety Notes
Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only. |
Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:
- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes unless the product is made for the eye area.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2021). Safety assessment of keratin and keratin-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 40(2 Suppl), 36S–51S (safe as used). https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818211013019
- What it shows: Safety conclusion.
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2021). Safety assessment of keratin and keratin-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 40(2 Suppl), 36S–51S (safe as used). https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818211013019
10. Product-line notes
- ORY® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY® Haircare: Designed for the look and feel of hair and scalp comfort. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss.
- ORY® Handmade Soap: Hydrolyzed keratin is used mainly in syndet, liquid, and shampoo bars (cosmetics under FDA rules). Not intended to treat any skin condition.
- ORY® Cosmetics: Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.
11. References
Peer-reviewed research
- Barba, C., Méndez, S., Roddick-Lanzilotta, A., Kelly, R., Parra, J. L., & Coderch, L. (2008). Cosmetic effectiveness of topically applied hydrolysed keratin peptides and lipids derived from wool. Skin Research and Technology, 14(2), 243–248. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0846.2007.00280.x
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2021). Safety assessment of keratin and keratin-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 40(2 Suppl), 36S–51S (safe as used). https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818211013019
- Fukutomi, Y., Itagaki, Y., Taniguchi, M., et al. (2011). Rhinoconjunctival sensitization to hydrolyzed wheat protein in facial soap can induce wheat-dependent exercise-induced anaphylaxis. Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, 127(2), 531–533. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Rhinoconjunctival%20sensitization%20to%20hydrolyzed%20wheat%20protein%20in%20facial%20soap%20can%20induce%20wheat-dependent%20exercise-induced%20anaphylaxis
- Roddick-Lanzilotta, A., Kelly, R., Scott, S., & Chahal, S. (2007). New keratin isolates: Actives for natural hair protection. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 58(4), 405–411. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17728941/
- Secchi, G. (2008). Role of protein in cosmetics. Clinics in Dermatology, 26(4), 321–325. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18691510/
- Villa, A. L. V., Aragão, M. R. S., dos Santos, E. P., et al. (2013). Feather keratin hydrolysates obtained from microbial keratinases: Effect on hair fiber. BMC Biotechnology, 13, 15. https://doi.org/10.1186/1472-6750-13-15
Government and regulatory sources
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
