ORY® product lines:
☑ Skincare (nails, cuticles, film-forming hydration)
☑ Haircare (hero repair protein)
◐ Handmade Soap (syndet/liquid; partial survival and label value in cold process)
☑ Cosmetics (mascaras, nail treatments) — dual-use ingredient, animal-derived
Hydrolyzed keratin is the protein of hair itself, broken into peptides small enough to bind to and penetrate damaged hair. Human hair is about 90% keratin, and bleaching, heat, and chemical services strip both cuticle protein and the cysteine-rich cross-links that give hair its strength. Applying keratin hydrolysate replaces lost protein: cosmetic-effectiveness studies show wool-derived keratin peptides increase hair hydration and improve mechanical properties [1], keratin isolates protect hair from damage [2], and feather-keratin hydrolysates improved the strength and reduced the water-related swelling of treated fibers [3]. The same cysteine-rich peptides strengthen nails and give skin a smoothing, moisture-binding film [4]. Keratin is animal-derived (wool or feathers — usually by-products), so ORY® offers rice and silk proteins as vegan alternatives. Molecular weight decides everything: low-molecular-weight peptides (<1,000 Da) penetrate the hair cortex and skin surface to strengthen and hydrate from within; medium weights (1,000–5,000 Da) film-form on the cuticle for shine and protection; high weights (>10,000 Da) sit on the surface — and, in rinse-off products used on the face, are the fraction linked to sensitization (the hydrolyzed-wheat-protein facial-soap allergy cases). ORY® specifies low-to-medium molecular weight hydrolysates and keeps protein levels modest in facial cleansers and soap.
What is Hydrolyzed Keratin made of?
Hydrolyzed keratin is produced by enzymatic, acid, or alkaline hydrolysis of cleaned wool or feather keratin, then filtered and standardized by molecular weight. Points to know [1–4]:
- Cysteine-rich peptides: Keratin’s sulfur amino acids (cysteine, cystine) match those of hair and nails and can form disulfide-type interactions with damaged fiber.
- Molecular weight grades: Low (<1,000 Da, penetrating), medium (1,000–5,000 Da, film-forming), high (surface-coating).
- Source: Sheep’s wool (New Zealand grades) or poultry feathers; animal-derived, non-vegan.
- Physical form: Clear-to-amber aqueous solution (20–30% solids) or powder; water-soluble; pH 4–7; heat-tolerant to ~60 °C (add at cool-down).
- Compatibility: Amphoteric — works with anionic surfactants and cationic conditioners.
- Typical use: 0.5–3% haircare; 0.5–2% skincare and nail care; 0.5–1% cosmetics.
What skin type is best suited for Hydrolyzed Keratin?
Hydrolyzed keratin suits skin needing film-forming hydration and nail strength:
- Dry: Hydrolyzed keratin forms a hydrating, moisture-binding film and supplies amino acids that support the natural moisturizing factor.
- Mature: Film-forming peptides give a tightening, smoothing feel; amino acids support the barrier.
- Sensitive: Generally well tolerated at low molecular weight; patch test (protein sensitization is rare but documented for high-MW hydrolysates).
- Normal: Light hydration and a silky feel in serums and lotions.
- Combination and Oily: Oil-free film-forming hydration; low levels in gels and toners.
- Acne-prone: Non-comedogenic; keep levels low in leave-ons.
What hair type is best suited for Hydrolyzed Keratin?
Hydrolyzed keratin is ORY®‘s hero repair protein for damaged hair:
- Color-treated or chemically processed: The core use — replaces protein lost to bleach, dye, relaxers, and perms; improves strength [1, 3].
- Dry or damaged: Fills cuticle gaps; reduces porosity and breakage; improves hydration [1].
- Curly and coily: Strengthens fragile curls; balance with moisture to avoid protein stiffness.
- Mature or thinning: Reinforces fine, fragile fibers; adds body.
- Straight and wavy: Low levels for strength and shine without stiffness.
- Oily scalp: Rinse-off use; lengths-focused.
- Sensitive scalp, dandruff-prone: Fiber-focused; neutral for the scalp; patch test.
What are the benefits of Hydrolyzed Keratin?
Hydrolyzed keratin’s benefits are supported by hair-science studies [1–4]:
- Protein replacement: Restores keratin lost to chemical and heat damage [1, 3].
- Strength and elasticity: Improved mechanical properties of treated hair [1, 3].
- Hydration: Increased hair water content and reduced water-related swelling [1, 3].
- Cuticle repair and shine: Film-forming peptides smooth the cuticle [2].
- Heat and damage protection: Keratin isolates protect against fiber damage [2].
- Nail strengthening: Cysteine-rich peptides reinforce nails and cuticles.
- Skin film-forming hydration: Smoothing, moisture-binding film [4].
- Reduced breakage: Stronger, more flexible fibers.
Dual use across ORY® product lines
Hydrolyzed keratin serves haircare as a hero, skincare and cosmetics for nails and film-forming hydration, and the soap line mainly in syndet and liquid products.
| ORY® line | Dual use? | How it is used | Typical level |
|---|---|---|---|
|
ORY® Skincare |
Yes |
Nail and cuticle treatments, hand creams, film-forming serums and lotions. |
0.5–2% |
|
ORY® Haircare |
Yes |
Protein-repair conditioners and masks, leave-in strengtheners, bond-repair treatments, shampoos, conditioner bars. |
0.5–3% |
|
ORY® Handmade Soap |
Limited |
Syndet and liquid soaps and shampoo bars (0.5–2%); in cold-process bars keratin survives only partly and provides label value; keep facial-soap protein levels low (MW caution). |
0.5–2% |
|
ORY® Cosmetics |
Yes |
Mascaras and brow gels (lash/brow conditioning), nail treatments, foundations (smoothing film). |
0.5–1% |
Pros and cons of Hydrolyzed Keratin
Pros
Cons
- Hair-identical protein: Same cysteine-rich composition as hair and nails.
- Published hair-repair evidence: [1–3].
- Skin and nail uses: Beyond hair.
- Surfactant- and cationic-compatible: Easy to formulate.
- Upcycled: Wool and feather by-products.
- Animal-derived: Not vegan; offer rice or silk alternatives.
- Protein overload: Excess protein stiffens hair — alternate with moisture treatments.
- Sensitization (high-MW): Rare; specify low-MW and limit in facial cleansers [5].
- Odor: Slight protein note at high levels.
- Preservation: Protein solutions need robust preservation.
What is the best application of Hydrolyzed Keratin?
Hydrolyzed keratin is used in repair and strengthening products:
- Protein-repair mask: 2–3% with BTMS and ceramide NP; weekly, alternated with moisture masks.
- Leave-in strengthener: 1% with panthenol.
- Repair shampoo/conditioner: 0.5–1%.
- Nail and cuticle serum: 1–2%.
- Hand cream: 0.5–1%.
- Conditioner bar: 1–2%.
- Cosmetics: 0.5% in mascara or brow gel.
Peer-reviewed references
- Barba C, Méndez S, Roddick-Lanzilotta A, Kelly R, Parra JL, Coderch L. Cosmetic effectiveness of topically applied hydrolysed keratin peptides and lipids derived from wool. Skin Research and Technology. 2008;14(2):243–248.
- Roddick-Lanzilotta A, Kelly R, Scott S, Chahal S. New keratin isolates: actives for natural hair protection. Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2007;58(4):405–411.
- Villa ALV, Aragão MRS, dos Santos EP, et al. Feather keratin hydrolysates obtained from microbial keratinases: effect on hair fiber. BMC Biotechnology. 2013;13:15.
- Secchi G. Role of protein in cosmetics. Clinics in Dermatology. 2008;26(4):321–325.
- Fukutomi Y, Itagaki Y, Taniguchi M, et al. Rhinoconjunctival sensitization to hydrolyzed wheat protein in facial soap can induce wheat-dependent exercise-induced anaphylaxis. Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology. 2011;127(2):531–533.
Disclaimer:
The information on this page is provided by ORY International, LC for educational purposes only. It summarizes published research about hydrolyzed keratin as an ingredient, including laboratory and animal studies and clinical studies of formulas that may differ from ORY® products. Results from these studies may not apply to every person or to ORY® products. This page is not medical advice and does not replace advice from a dermatologist, physician, or other qualified healthcare provider.
ORY® Skincare, Haircare, Handmade Soap, and Cosmetics products are cosmetics. They are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, mitigate, or prevent any disease or condition, including eczema, dermatitis, acne, dandruff, or any other condition. References to FDA or Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) findings describe the ingredient, not ORY® products, and do not mean FDA has reviewed or approved any ORY® product.
Results vary by skin and scalp type, formulation, and use. Allergy to hydrolyzed keratin is rare. Any cosmetic can cause irritation, sometimes from other ingredients. Always patch test, follow label directions, and stop use if irritation occurs. If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, consult a healthcare provider before use.
ORY International, LC works to keep this page accurate and current but makes no warranty as to its completeness. To the fullest extent permitted by law, ORY International, LC is not liable for any loss or injury arising from reliance on this information or from use of any product contrary to its label directions. To report a reaction, contact us at [insert contact email / phone].
