At ORY®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about ceramide NP. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.
How to read this page Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews. Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY® uses. Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly. |
1. General Description and Role
Claim: Ceramide NP (formerly called ceramide 3) is a skin-identical lipid. Ceramides are a major part of the lipids between skin cells that help skin hold in moisture. In ORY® products, Ceramide NP helps support the skin’s moisture barrier so skin feels soft, smooth, and less dry. |
Verification: Supported. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that ceramides, including Ceramide NP, are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration. Reviews describe ceramides as a key part of the skin barrier.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., Boyer, I. J., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of ceramides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 5S–25S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820958692
- What it shows: CIR safety assessment of ceramides.
- Coderch, L., López, O., de la Maza, A., & Parra, J. L. (2003). Ceramides and skin function. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(2), 107–129. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304020-00004
- What it shows: Review of ceramides and skin function.
- Burnett, C. L., Boyer, I. J., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of ceramides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 5S–25S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820958692
2. Composition and Production
Claim: Ceramide NP is N-stearoyl phytosphingosine: a phytosphingosine base (usually made by fermentation) joined to stearic acid. It is a white, waxy powder that dissolves only in hot oils and carries no electrical charge (non-ionic). |
Verification: Supported. Its chemistry is well documented. Because it is non-ionic, it works in creams, balms, and cationic conditioners.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., Boyer, I. J., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of ceramides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 5S–25S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820958692
- What it shows: Describes chemistry.
- Coderch, L., López, O., de la Maza, A., & Parra, J. L. (2003). Ceramides and skin function. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(2), 107–129. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304020-00004
- What it shows: Describes ceramide classes.
- Burnett, C. L., Boyer, I. J., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of ceramides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 5S–25S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820958692
3. Skin Type Suitability
Claim: Ceramide NP suits all skin types and is especially helpful for dry skin. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Dry and atopic skin has been found to contain lower levels of ceramides. This research explains why barrier lipids are used in moisturizers; it does not mean ORY® products treat eczema or atopic dermatitis.
Citations:
- Imokawa, G., Abe, A., Jin, K., Higaki, Y., Kawashima, M., & Hidano, A. (1991). Decreased level of ceramides in stratum corneum of atopic dermatitis: An etiologic factor in atopic dry skin? Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 96(4), 523–526. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12470233
- What it shows: Study of ceramide levels in atopic skin (a medical condition).
- Uchida, Y., & Park, K. (2021). Ceramides in skin health and disease: An update. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 22(6), 853–866. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-021-00619-2
- What it shows: Review of ceramides in skin health.
- Burnett, C. L., Boyer, I. J., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of ceramides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 5S–25S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820958692
- What it shows: Safety data.
- Imokawa, G., Abe, A., Jin, K., Higaki, Y., Kawashima, M., & Hidano, A. (1991). Decreased level of ceramides in stratum corneum of atopic dermatitis: An etiologic factor in atopic dry skin? Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 96(4), 523–526. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12470233
4. Hair and Scalp Suitability
Claim: In haircare, Ceramide NP helps damaged hair feel smoother and softer. |
Verification: Limited evidence. Ceramides are part of the hair cuticle’s lipids, and reviews describe lipid-containing conditioners. We found no clinical study of Ceramide NP alone on hair; ORY® does not claim it repairs or strengthens hair.
Citations:
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
- What it shows: Review of hair cosmetics.
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
5. Benefits
Claim: Ceramide NP helps skin feel moisturized and supports the skin’s moisture barrier. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. A cream designed to mimic the skin’s natural moisturizing system increased skin hydration in a clinical study, but it contained several ingredients, not Ceramide NP alone. In mouse studies, a complete mix of ceramide, cholesterol, and fatty acid helped barrier recovery, while a single lipid alone slowed it. ORY® therefore pairs Ceramide NP with cholesterol and fatty acids.
Citations:
- Spada, F., Barnes, T. M., & Greive, K. A. (2018). Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 11, 491–497. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S177697
- What it shows: Clinical hydration study of a multi-ingredient cream.
- Man, M. Q., Feingold, K. R., & Elias, P. M. (1993). Exogenous lipids influence permeability barrier recovery in acetone-treated murine skin. Archives of Dermatology, 129(6), 728–738. https://doi.org/10.1001/archderm.1993.01680270066008
- What it shows: Mouse study: single lipids vs. complete mixtures.
- Man, M. Q., Feingold, K. R., Thornfeldt, C. R., & Elias, P. M. (1996). Optimization of physiological lipid mixtures for barrier repair. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 106(5), 1096–1101. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12340135
- What it shows: Mouse study of optimized lipid ratios.
- Spada, F., Barnes, T. M., & Greive, K. A. (2018). Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 11, 491–497. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S177697
6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines
Claim: Ceramide NP is used in ORY® Skincare, Haircare, and Cosmetics, and in syndet and conditioner bars. |
Verification: Supported. It is not used in cold-process soap.
| Product line | Typical level | How ORY® uses it |
| Skincare | 0.05–0.5% | Barrier creams, night creams, eye and hand creams, and balms. |
| Haircare | 0.02–0.2% | BTMS conditioners, masks, and leave-ins. |
| Handmade Soap line | 0.05–0.2% | Syndet and conditioner bars only. |
| Cosmetics | 0.05–0.3% | Foundations, lip balms, lipsticks, and cream sticks. |
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., Boyer, I. J., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of ceramides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 5S–25S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820958692
- What it shows: Reported uses and concentrations.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
- What it shows: FDA definition of soap; other bars are cosmetics.
- Burnett, C. L., Boyer, I. J., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of ceramides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 5S–25S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820958692
7. Pros
Claim: A skin-identical, non-ionic barrier lipid with a CIR safety conclusion. |
Verification: Supported. Supported by barrier science and CIR review.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., Boyer, I. J., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of ceramides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 5S–25S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820958692
- What it shows: Safety conclusion.
- Coderch, L., López, O., de la Maza, A., & Parra, J. L. (2003). Ceramides and skin function. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(2), 107–129. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304020-00004
- What it shows: Barrier science.
- Burnett, C. L., Boyer, I. J., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of ceramides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 5S–25S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820958692
8. Cons
Claim: Ceramide NP is hard to dissolve, costly, and has no clinical trial of its own. |
Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:
- Hard to dissolve. Needs a hot oil phase and can recrystallize if cooled too fast.
- Cost. A premium ingredient.
- Works best in a mix. Animal studies show a single lipid alone can slow barrier recovery.
- No stand-alone trial. Evidence comes from multi-ingredient creams and barrier research.
Citations:
- Man, M. Q., Feingold, K. R., & Elias, P. M. (1993). Exogenous lipids influence permeability barrier recovery in acetone-treated murine skin. Archives of Dermatology, 129(6), 728–738. https://doi.org/10.1001/archderm.1993.01680270066008
- What it shows: Single lipids vs. mixtures.
- Man, M. Q., Feingold, K. R., & Elias, P. M. (1993). Exogenous lipids influence permeability barrier recovery in acetone-treated murine skin. Archives of Dermatology, 129(6), 728–738. https://doi.org/10.1001/archderm.1993.01680270066008
9. Safety Notes
Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only. |
Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:
- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes unless the product is made for the eye area.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., Boyer, I. J., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of ceramides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 5S–25S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820958692
- What it shows: Safety conclusion.
- Burnett, C. L., Boyer, I. J., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of ceramides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 5S–25S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820958692
10. Product-line notes
- ORY® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY® Haircare: Designed for the look and feel of hair and scalp comfort. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss.
- ORY® Handmade Soap line: This ingredient is not used in cold-process soap. Syndet, lotion, shampoo, and conditioner bars that contain it are cosmetics under FDA rules, not soap, and list all of their ingredients. Not intended to treat eczema or any skin condition.
- ORY® Cosmetics: Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.
11. References
Peer-reviewed research
- Burnett, C. L., Boyer, I. J., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of ceramides as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 5S–25S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820958692
- Coderch, L., López, O., de la Maza, A., & Parra, J. L. (2003). Ceramides and skin function. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 4(2), 107–129. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304020-00004
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
- Imokawa, G., Abe, A., Jin, K., Higaki, Y., Kawashima, M., & Hidano, A. (1991). Decreased level of ceramides in stratum corneum of atopic dermatitis: An etiologic factor in atopic dry skin? Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 96(4), 523–526. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12470233
- Man, M. Q., Feingold, K. R., & Elias, P. M. (1993). Exogenous lipids influence permeability barrier recovery in acetone-treated murine skin. Archives of Dermatology, 129(6), 728–738. https://doi.org/10.1001/archderm.1993.01680270066008
- Man, M. Q., Feingold, K. R., Thornfeldt, C. R., & Elias, P. M. (1996). Optimization of physiological lipid mixtures for barrier repair. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 106(5), 1096–1101. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12340135
- Spada, F., Barnes, T. M., & Greive, K. A. (2018). Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 11, 491–497. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S177697
- Uchida, Y., & Park, K. (2021). Ceramides in skin health and disease: An update. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 22(6), 853–866. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40257-021-00619-2
Government and regulatory sources
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
