Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate

At ORY^®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI). Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.

How to read this page

Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews.

Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY^® uses.

Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly.

1. General Description and Role

Claim: Sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) is a mild, coconut-derived cleanser with a dense, creamy lather. In ORY^® products, it is the main cleanser in syndet and shampoo bars.

Verification: Supported. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded in 2017 that isethionate salts, including sodium cocoyl isethionate, are safe when formulated to be non-irritating.

Citations:

- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Amended safety assessment of isethionate salts as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl isethionate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 5S–16S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating; replaces the 1993 report, Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 12(5), 459–479). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816685552
  - What it shows: CIR amended safety assessment (2017).

2. Composition and Production

Claim: SCI is made by joining coconut fatty acids to sodium isethionate. It is a powder, prill, or noodle that melts around 80 °C and is formulated at pH 5–6.5.

Verification: Supported. Its chemistry is documented in the CIR report.

Citations:

- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Amended safety assessment of isethionate salts as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl isethionate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 5S–16S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating; replaces the 1993 report, Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 12(5), 459–479). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816685552
  - What it shows: Describes chemistry.

3. Skin Type Suitability

Claim: SCI suits all skin types.

Verification: Supported. Reviews show syndet bars based on isethionates are milder to the skin barrier than true soap.

Citations:

- Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P., Moore, D. J., Subramanyan, K., Misra, M., & Meyer, F. (2004). Cleansing without compromise: The impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(Suppl 1), 16–25. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04S1002.x
  - What it shows: Review of mild cleansing.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2018). The science behind skin care: Cleansers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(1), 8–14. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12469
  - What it shows: Review of cleansers.

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

Claim: In haircare, SCI is the main cleanser in ORY^® shampoo bars.

Verification: Supported. This is a cleansing role; ORY^® haircare products are not intended to treat scalp conditions.

Citations:

- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
  - What it shows: Review of hair cosmetics.

5. Benefits

Claim: SCI cleanses with a creamy lather and leaves skin feeling soft, not tight.

Verification: Supported. These are cleansing and feel benefits.

Citations:

- Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P., Moore, D. J., Subramanyan, K., Misra, M., & Meyer, F. (2004). Cleansing without compromise: The impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(Suppl 1), 16–25. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04S1002.x
  - What it shows: Mild cleansing.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2018). The science behind skin care: Cleansers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(1), 8–14. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12469
  - What it shows: Cleansers.

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines

Claim: SCI is used across all four ORY^® lines, especially in syndet and shampoo bars.

Verification: Supported. Syndet bars are cosmetics, not soap, under FDA rules.

Product line	Typical level	How ORY^® uses it
Skincare	3–15% liquid; 30–60% bars	Syndet cleansing bars and creamy cleansers.
Haircare	5–15% liquid; 40–60% bars	Shampoo bars and creamy shampoos.
Handmade Soap line	30–60%	Syndet and shampoo bars (not true soap).
Cosmetics	5–30%	Cleansing balms and makeup-removing bars.

Citations:

- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Amended safety assessment of isethionate salts as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl isethionate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 5S–16S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating; replaces the 1993 report, Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 12(5), 459–479). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816685552
  - What it shows: Reported uses.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
  - What it shows: FDA definition of soap; other bars are cosmetics.

7. Pros

Claim: The classic mild bar cleanser, with a CIR safety conclusion.

Verification: Supported. Supported by CIR review and surfactant science.

Citations:

- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Amended safety assessment of isethionate salts as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl isethionate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 5S–16S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating; replaces the 1993 report, Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 12(5), 459–479). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816685552
  - What it shows: Safety.

8. Cons

Claim: SCI must be melted or dispersed warm and dusts during handling.

Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:

- Low solubility.
- Dust. Wear a mask when handling powder.
- pH. Breaks down above pH 7.
- Not COSMOS-approved in most standards.

Citations:

- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Amended safety assessment of isethionate salts as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl isethionate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 5S–16S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating; replaces the 1993 report, Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 12(5), 459–479). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816685552
  - What it shows: Safety.

9. Safety Notes

Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only.

Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:

- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- Rinse well; avoid getting cleansers in the eyes.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes unless the product is made for the eye area.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.

Citations:

- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Amended safety assessment of isethionate salts as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl isethionate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 5S–16S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating; replaces the 1993 report, Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 12(5), 459–479). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816685552
  - What it shows: Safety conclusion.

10. Product-line notes

- ORY^® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY^® Haircare: Designed for the look and feel of hair and scalp comfort. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss. If you notice sudden or patchy hair loss, see a dermatologist.
- ORY^® Handmade Soap line: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate is used in liquid soaps and syndet, shampoo, or cleansing bars, which are cosmetics under FDA rules and list all of their ingredients. It is not used in cold-process soap.
- ORY^® Cosmetics: Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.

11. References

Peer-reviewed research

- Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P., Moore, D. J., Subramanyan, K., Misra, M., & Meyer, F. (2004). Cleansing without compromise: The impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(Suppl 1), 16–25. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04S1002.x
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Amended safety assessment of isethionate salts as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl isethionate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 5S–16S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating; replaces the 1993 report, Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 12(5), 459–479). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816685552
- Draelos, Z. D. (2018). The science behind skin care: Cleansers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(1), 8–14. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12469
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/

Government and regulatory sources

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20

1. General Description and Role

2. Composition and Production

3. Skin Type Suitability

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

5. Benefits

6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines

7. Pros

8. Cons

9. Safety Notes

10. Product-line notes

11. References

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines