At ORY®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about sodium cocoyl glutamate. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.
How to read this page Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews. Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY® uses. Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly. |
1. General Description and Role
Claim: Sodium cocoyl glutamate is an amino-acid-based cleanser made from coconut fatty acids and glutamic acid. In ORY® products, it cleanses gently with a creamy lather. |
Verification: Supported. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that amino acid alkyl amides, including sodium cocoyl glutamate, are safe when formulated to be non-irritating.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Safety assessment of amino acid alkyl amides as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl glutamate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 17S–56S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816686048
- What it shows: CIR safety assessment (2017).
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Safety assessment of amino acid alkyl amides as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl glutamate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 17S–56S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816686048
2. Composition and Production
Claim: It is made by joining coconut fatty acids to fermentation-derived L-glutamic acid. It works at skin-friendly pH 5–6.5. |
Verification: Supported. Its chemistry is documented in the CIR report.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Safety assessment of amino acid alkyl amides as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl glutamate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 17S–56S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816686048
- What it shows: Describes chemistry.
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Safety assessment of amino acid alkyl amides as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl glutamate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 17S–56S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816686048
3. Skin Type Suitability
Claim: Sodium cocoyl glutamate suits all skin types, including sensitive skin. |
Verification: Supported. Reviews describe amino-acid surfactants as among the mildest cleansers.
Citations:
- Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P., Moore, D. J., Subramanyan, K., Misra, M., & Meyer, F. (2004). Cleansing without compromise: The impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(Suppl 1), 16–25. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04S1002.x
- What it shows: Review of mild cleansing.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2018). The science behind skin care: Cleansers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(1), 8–14. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12469
- What it shows: Review of cleansers.
- Seweryn, A. (2018). Interactions between surfactants and the skin – Theory and practice. Advances in Colloid and Interface Science, 256, 242–255. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cis.2018.04.002
- What it shows: Review of surfactant–skin interactions.
- Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P., Moore, D. J., Subramanyan, K., Misra, M., & Meyer, F. (2004). Cleansing without compromise: The impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(Suppl 1), 16–25. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04S1002.x
4. Hair and Scalp Suitability
Claim: In haircare, sodium cocoyl glutamate cleanses gently in sulfate-free shampoos. |
Verification: Supported. This is a cleansing role; ORY® haircare products are not intended to treat scalp conditions.
Citations:
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
- What it shows: Review of hair cosmetics.
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
5. Benefits
Claim: Sodium cocoyl glutamate cleanses gently and leaves skin feeling soft. |
Verification: Supported. These are cleansing and feel benefits.
Citations:
- Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P., Moore, D. J., Subramanyan, K., Misra, M., & Meyer, F. (2004). Cleansing without compromise: The impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(Suppl 1), 16–25. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04S1002.x
- What it shows: Mild cleansing.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2018). The science behind skin care: Cleansers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(1), 8–14. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12469
- What it shows: Cleansers.
- Seweryn, A. (2018). Interactions between surfactants and the skin – Theory and practice. Advances in Colloid and Interface Science, 256, 242–255. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cis.2018.04.002
- What it shows: Surfactant mildness.
- Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P., Moore, D. J., Subramanyan, K., Misra, M., & Meyer, F. (2004). Cleansing without compromise: The impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(Suppl 1), 16–25. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04S1002.x
6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines
Claim: It is used in ORY® cleansers across Skincare, Haircare, Cosmetics, and liquid and syndet soap. |
Verification: Supported. It is not used in cold-process soap.
| Product line | Typical level | How ORY® uses it |
| Skincare | 5–20% | Facial cleansers and cleansing milks. |
| Haircare | 10–25% | Sulfate-free shampoos and co-washes. |
| Handmade Soap line | 10–30% | Liquid soaps and syndet and shampoo bars. |
| Cosmetics | 3–10% | Makeup-removing and brush cleansers. |
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Safety assessment of amino acid alkyl amides as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl glutamate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 17S–56S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816686048
- What it shows: Reported uses.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
- What it shows: FDA definition of soap; other bars are cosmetics.
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Safety assessment of amino acid alkyl amides as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl glutamate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 17S–56S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816686048
7. Pros
Claim: One of the mildest anionic cleansers, with a CIR safety conclusion. |
Verification: Supported. Supported by CIR review and surfactant science.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Safety assessment of amino acid alkyl amides as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl glutamate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 17S–56S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816686048
- What it shows: Safety.
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Safety assessment of amino acid alkyl amides as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl glutamate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 17S–56S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816686048
8. Cons
Claim: Sodium cocoyl glutamate foams less and costs more. |
Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:
- Lower foam.
- Cost.
- Thin. Needs thickening.
- Limited compatibility with cationic conditioners.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Safety assessment of amino acid alkyl amides as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl glutamate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 17S–56S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816686048
- What it shows: Safety.
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Safety assessment of amino acid alkyl amides as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl glutamate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 17S–56S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816686048
9. Safety Notes
Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only. |
Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:
- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- Rinse well; avoid getting cleansers in the eyes.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes unless the product is made for the eye area.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.
Citations:
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Safety assessment of amino acid alkyl amides as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl glutamate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 17S–56S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816686048
- What it shows: Safety conclusion.
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Safety assessment of amino acid alkyl amides as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl glutamate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 17S–56S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816686048
10. Product-line notes
- ORY® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY® Haircare: Designed for the look and feel of hair and scalp comfort. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss. If you notice sudden or patchy hair loss, see a dermatologist.
- ORY® Handmade Soap line: Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate is used in liquid soaps and syndet, shampoo, or cleansing bars, which are cosmetics under FDA rules and list all of their ingredients. It is not used in cold-process soap.
- ORY® Cosmetics: Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.
11. References
Peer-reviewed research
- Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P., Moore, D. J., Subramanyan, K., Misra, M., & Meyer, F. (2004). Cleansing without compromise: The impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(Suppl 1), 16–25. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04S1002.x
- Burnett, C. L., et al. (2017). Safety assessment of amino acid alkyl amides as used in cosmetics (including sodium cocoyl glutamate). International Journal of Toxicology, 36(1 Suppl), 17S–56S (safe when formulated to be non-irritating). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581816686048
- Draelos, Z. D. (2018). The science behind skin care: Cleansers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(1), 8–14. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12469
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
- Seweryn, A. (2018). Interactions between surfactants and the skin – Theory and practice. Advances in Colloid and Interface Science, 256, 242–255. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cis.2018.04.002
Government and regulatory sources
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
