At ORY®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about sodium cocoamphoacetate. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.
How to read this page Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews. Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY® uses. Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly. |
1. General Description and Role
Claim: Sodium cocoamphoacetate is a mild, coconut-derived amphoteric surfactant. In ORY® products, it adds creamy foam and makes cleansers gentler. |
Verification: Supported. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel found cocoamphoacetate safe as a cosmetic ingredient and reaffirmed this in 2008.
Citations:
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphopropionate, cocoamphodiacetate, and cocoamphodipropionate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 121–142 (safe; reaffirmed in 2008; an updated CIR amphoacetates review was in progress in 2023). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078729
- What it shows: CIR safety assessment.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphopropionate, cocoamphodiacetate, and cocoamphodipropionate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 121–142 (safe; reaffirmed in 2008; an updated CIR amphoacetates review was in progress in 2023). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078729
2. Composition and Production
Claim: It is made from coconut fatty acids through an imidazoline intermediate and carries both positive and negative charges. It is supplied as a solution and formulated at pH 5–7. |
Verification: Supported. Its chemistry is documented in the CIR report.
Citations:
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphopropionate, cocoamphodiacetate, and cocoamphodipropionate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 121–142 (safe; reaffirmed in 2008; an updated CIR amphoacetates review was in progress in 2023). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078729
- What it shows: Describes chemistry.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphopropionate, cocoamphodiacetate, and cocoamphodipropionate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 121–142 (safe; reaffirmed in 2008; an updated CIR amphoacetates review was in progress in 2023). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078729
3. Skin Type Suitability
Claim: Sodium cocoamphoacetate suits all skin types, including sensitive skin. |
Verification: Supported. Mild surfactants disrupt the skin barrier less than harsh ones such as sodium lauryl sulfate.
Citations:
- Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P., Moore, D. J., Subramanyan, K., Misra, M., & Meyer, F. (2004). Cleansing without compromise: The impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(Suppl 1), 16–25. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04S1002.x
- What it shows: Review of mild cleansing.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2018). The science behind skin care: Cleansers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(1), 8–14. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12469
- What it shows: Review of cleansers.
- Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P., Moore, D. J., Subramanyan, K., Misra, M., & Meyer, F. (2004). Cleansing without compromise: The impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(Suppl 1), 16–25. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04S1002.x
4. Hair and Scalp Suitability
Claim: In haircare, sodium cocoamphoacetate adds mild, creamy foam to gentle shampoos and co-washes. |
Verification: Supported. This is a cleansing role; ORY® haircare products are not intended to treat scalp conditions.
Citations:
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
- What it shows: Review of hair cosmetics.
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
5. Benefits
Claim: Sodium cocoamphoacetate adds creamy foam and reduces the harshness of other cleansers. |
Verification: Supported. These are cleansing and feel benefits.
Citations:
- Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P., Moore, D. J., Subramanyan, K., Misra, M., & Meyer, F. (2004). Cleansing without compromise: The impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(Suppl 1), 16–25. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04S1002.x
- What it shows: Mild cleansing.
- Draelos, Z. D. (2018). The science behind skin care: Cleansers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(1), 8–14. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12469
- What it shows: Cleansers.
- Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P., Moore, D. J., Subramanyan, K., Misra, M., & Meyer, F. (2004). Cleansing without compromise: The impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(Suppl 1), 16–25. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04S1002.x
6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines
Claim: It is used in ORY® cleansers across Skincare, Haircare, Cosmetics, and liquid and syndet soap. |
Verification: Supported. It is not used in cold-process soap.
| Product line | Typical level | How ORY® uses it |
| Skincare | 3–10% | Gentle facial cleansers and body washes. |
| Haircare | 5–15% | Gentle shampoos, co-washes, and 2-in-1s. |
| Handmade Soap line | 5–20% | Liquid soaps and syndet and shampoo bars. |
| Cosmetics | 1–5% | Eye makeup removers and micellar waters. |
Citations:
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphopropionate, cocoamphodiacetate, and cocoamphodipropionate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 121–142 (safe; reaffirmed in 2008; an updated CIR amphoacetates review was in progress in 2023). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078729
- What it shows: Reported uses.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
- What it shows: FDA definition of soap; other bars are cosmetics.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphopropionate, cocoamphodiacetate, and cocoamphodipropionate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 121–142 (safe; reaffirmed in 2008; an updated CIR amphoacetates review was in progress in 2023). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078729
7. Pros
Claim: A mild co-surfactant with a CIR safety conclusion. |
Verification: Supported. Supported by CIR review and surfactant science.
Citations:
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphopropionate, cocoamphodiacetate, and cocoamphodipropionate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 121–142 (safe; reaffirmed in 2008; an updated CIR amphoacetates review was in progress in 2023). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078729
- What it shows: Safety.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphopropionate, cocoamphodiacetate, and cocoamphodipropionate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 121–142 (safe; reaffirmed in 2008; an updated CIR amphoacetates review was in progress in 2023). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078729
8. Cons
Claim: Sodium cocoamphoacetate is a weak primary cleanser. |
Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:
- Weak alone. Pair with another surfactant.
- Alkaline as supplied.
- Cost.
Citations:
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphopropionate, cocoamphodiacetate, and cocoamphodipropionate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 121–142 (safe; reaffirmed in 2008; an updated CIR amphoacetates review was in progress in 2023). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078729
- What it shows: Safety.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphopropionate, cocoamphodiacetate, and cocoamphodipropionate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 121–142 (safe; reaffirmed in 2008; an updated CIR amphoacetates review was in progress in 2023). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078729
9. Safety Notes
Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only. |
Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:
- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- Rinse well; avoid getting cleansers in the eyes.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes unless the product is made for the eye area.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.
Citations:
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphopropionate, cocoamphodiacetate, and cocoamphodipropionate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 121–142 (safe; reaffirmed in 2008; an updated CIR amphoacetates review was in progress in 2023). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078729
- What it shows: Safety conclusion.
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphopropionate, cocoamphodiacetate, and cocoamphodipropionate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 121–142 (safe; reaffirmed in 2008; an updated CIR amphoacetates review was in progress in 2023). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078729
10. Product-line notes
- ORY® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY® Haircare: Designed for the look and feel of hair and scalp comfort. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss. If you notice sudden or patchy hair loss, see a dermatologist.
- ORY® Handmade Soap line: Sodium Cocoamphoacetate is used in liquid soaps and syndet, shampoo, or cleansing bars, which are cosmetics under FDA rules and list all of their ingredients. It is not used in cold-process soap.
- ORY® Cosmetics: Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.
11. References
Peer-reviewed research
- Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P., Moore, D. J., Subramanyan, K., Misra, M., & Meyer, F. (2004). Cleansing without compromise: The impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(Suppl 1), 16–25. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04S1002.x
- Draelos, Z. D. (2018). The science behind skin care: Cleansers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(1), 8–14. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12469
- Elder, R. L. (Ed.). (1990). Final report on the safety assessment of cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphopropionate, cocoamphodiacetate, and cocoamphodipropionate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology, 9(2), 121–142 (safe; reaffirmed in 2008; an updated CIR amphoacetates review was in progress in 2023). https://doi.org/10.3109/10915819009078729
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
Government and regulatory sources
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
