Caffeine

At ORY^®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about caffeine. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.

Please note about hair studies: Some studies on this page tested caffeine in people with hair loss (such as androgenetic alopecia), which is a medical condition, or in cell cultures or animals. Under FDA rules (21 CFR 310.527), a product that claims to grow hair or prevent hair loss is a drug. ORY^® products that contain caffeine are cosmetics that help hair look fuller and thicker and help the scalp feel refreshed; they are not intended to grow hair or treat hair loss.

How to read this page

Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews.

Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY^® uses.

Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly.

1. General Description and Role

Claim: Caffeine is a natural methylxanthine found in coffee and tea. In ORY^® products, it helps the eye area look less puffy, helps skin look smoother, and gives scalp products an energizing feel while helping hair look fuller.

Verification: Supported. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that caffeine and related methylxanthines are safe in the present practices of use and concentration.

Citations:

- Cherian, P. A., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of methylxanthines (caffeine, theobromine, and theophylline) as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(4 Suppl) (safe in the present practices of use and concentration). https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818241260282
  - What it shows: CIR safety assessment of methylxanthines.

2. Composition and Production

Claim: Cosmetic caffeine is extracted from coffee or tea or synthesized; both are the same USP-grade powder. It dissolves to about 2% in cold water and is stable to heat and pH.

Verification: Supported. In a penetration study, caffeine from a shampoo reached hair follicles within minutes.

Citations:

- Otberg, N., Teichmann, A., Rasuljev, U., Sinkgraven, R., Sterry, W., & Lademann, J. (2007). Follicular penetration of topically applied caffeine via a shampoo formulation. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 20(4), 195–198. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17396054/
  - What it shows: Follicular penetration study.
- Herman, A., & Herman, A. P. (2013). Caffeine’s mechanisms of action and its cosmetic use. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 26(1), 8–14. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23075568/
  - What it shows: Review of caffeine in cosmetics.

3. Skin Type Suitability

Claim: Caffeine suits all skin types.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. Reviews describe caffeine’s effects on blood vessels and fat cells, which is why it is used in eye and body products. These are appearance effects.

Citations:

- Herman, A., & Herman, A. P. (2013). Caffeine’s mechanisms of action and its cosmetic use. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 26(1), 8–14. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23075568/
  - What it shows: Review of caffeine in cosmetics.

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

Claim: In haircare, caffeine helps hair look fuller and gives the scalp a refreshed feel.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. In cultured human hair follicles, caffeine countered testosterone’s effects and supported hair-shaft growth. An open-label study in men with androgenetic alopecia compared a caffeine liquid with 5% minoxidil. These are lab and medical-condition studies; ORY^® does not claim caffeine grows hair or compare it with minoxidil.

Citations:

- Fischer, T. W., Hipler, U. C., & Elsner, P. (2007). Effect of caffeine and testosterone on the proliferation of human hair follicles in vitro. International Journal of Dermatology, 46(1), 27–35. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-4632.2007.03119.x
  - What it shows: Lab study of human follicles.
- Fischer, T. W., Herczeg-Lisztes, E., Funk, W., Zillikens, D., Bíró, T., & Paus, R. (2014). Differential effects of caffeine on hair shaft elongation, matrix and outer root sheath keratinocyte proliferation, and transforming growth factor-β2/insulin-like growth factor-1-mediated regulation of the hair cycle in male and female human hair follicles in vitro. British Journal of Dermatology, 171(5), 1031–1043. https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.13114
  - What it shows: Lab study of human follicles.
- Dhurat, R., Chitallia, J., May, T. W., et al. (2017). An open-label randomized multicenter study assessing the noninferiority of a caffeine-based topical liquid 0.2% versus minoxidil 5% solution in male androgenetic alopecia. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 30(6), 298–305. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29055953/
  - What it shows: Open-label study in hair loss (a medical use).
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 310.527 — Drug products offered over-the-counter for external use as hair growers or for hair loss prevention. https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/310.527
  - What it shows: FDA hair-growth rule.

5. Benefits

Claim: Caffeine helps reduce the look of under-eye puffiness and helps skin look smoother.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. Reviews describe these effects; appearance claims are cosmetic, while claims to treat cellulite or fat are not.

Citations:

- Herman, A., & Herman, A. P. (2013). Caffeine’s mechanisms of action and its cosmetic use. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 26(1), 8–14. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23075568/
  - What it shows: Review.

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines

Claim: Caffeine is used in all four ORY^® product lines.

Verification: Supported. It survives soapmaking, so coffee soap and caffeine shampoo bars are possible.

Product line	Typical level	How ORY^® uses it
Skincare	0.5–3%	Eye gels and creams, body lotions, and antioxidant serums.
Haircare	0.2–1% leave-on; 1–2% shampoo	Scalp tonics and serums, shampoos, and conditioners.
Handmade Soap	0.5–2%	Coffee soap and caffeine shampoo bars.
Cosmetics	0.5–1%	Eye primers, concealers, and under-eye patches.

Citations:

- Cherian, P. A., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of methylxanthines (caffeine, theobromine, and theophylline) as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(4 Suppl) (safe in the present practices of use and concentration). https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818241260282
  - What it shows: Reported uses.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
  - What it shows: FDA definition of soap; other bars are cosmetics.

7. Pros

Claim: A well-studied, stable ingredient with a CIR safety conclusion.

Verification: Supported. Supported by CIR review and published research.

Citations:

- Cherian, P. A., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of methylxanthines (caffeine, theobromine, and theophylline) as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(4 Suppl) (safe in the present practices of use and concentration). https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818241260282
  - What it shows: Safety.
- Herman, A., & Herman, A. P. (2013). Caffeine’s mechanisms of action and its cosmetic use. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 26(1), 8–14. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23075568/
  - What it shows: Review.

8. Cons

Claim: Caffeine can crystallize and tastes bitter; hair evidence is from medical studies.

Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:

- Solubility. About 2% in cold water.
- Bitter. Not for lip products.
- Hair data are from lab and hair-loss studies.
- Claims. Cosmetic appearance only.

Citations:

- Dhurat, R., Chitallia, J., May, T. W., et al. (2017). An open-label randomized multicenter study assessing the noninferiority of a caffeine-based topical liquid 0.2% versus minoxidil 5% solution in male androgenetic alopecia. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 30(6), 298–305. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29055953/
  - What it shows: Medical study.

9. Safety Notes

Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only.

Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:

- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes unless the product is made for the eye area.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.

Citations:

- Cherian, P. A., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of methylxanthines (caffeine, theobromine, and theophylline) as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(4 Suppl) (safe in the present practices of use and concentration). https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818241260282
  - What it shows: Safety conclusion.

10. Product-line notes

- ORY^® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY^® Haircare: Designed for the look and feel of hair and scalp comfort. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss. If you notice sudden or patchy hair loss, see a dermatologist.
- ORY^® Handmade Soap: Caffeine and coffee are used in some ORY^® bars. Handmade soap is naturally alkaline, and each bar may vary slightly. Not intended to treat any skin or scalp condition.
- ORY^® Cosmetics: Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.

11. References

Peer-reviewed research

- Cherian, P. A., et al. (2024). Safety assessment of methylxanthines (caffeine, theobromine, and theophylline) as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 43(4 Suppl) (safe in the present practices of use and concentration). https://doi.org/10.1177/10915818241260282
- Dhurat, R., Chitallia, J., May, T. W., et al. (2017). An open-label randomized multicenter study assessing the noninferiority of a caffeine-based topical liquid 0.2% versus minoxidil 5% solution in male androgenetic alopecia. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 30(6), 298–305. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29055953/
- Fischer, T. W., Herczeg-Lisztes, E., Funk, W., Zillikens, D., Bíró, T., & Paus, R. (2014). Differential effects of caffeine on hair shaft elongation, matrix and outer root sheath keratinocyte proliferation, and transforming growth factor-β2/insulin-like growth factor-1-mediated regulation of the hair cycle in male and female human hair follicles in vitro. British Journal of Dermatology, 171(5), 1031–1043. https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.13114
- Fischer, T. W., Hipler, U. C., & Elsner, P. (2007). Effect of caffeine and testosterone on the proliferation of human hair follicles in vitro. International Journal of Dermatology, 46(1), 27–35. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-4632.2007.03119.x
- Herman, A., & Herman, A. P. (2013). Caffeine’s mechanisms of action and its cosmetic use. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 26(1), 8–14. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23075568/
- Otberg, N., Teichmann, A., Rasuljev, U., Sinkgraven, R., Sterry, W., & Lademann, J. (2007). Follicular penetration of topically applied caffeine via a shampoo formulation. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 20(4), 195–198. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17396054/

Government and regulatory sources

- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 310.527 — Drug products offered over-the-counter for external use as hair growers or for hair loss prevention. https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/310.527
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20

1. General Description and Role

2. Composition and Production

3. Skin Type Suitability

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

5. Benefits

6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines

7. Pros

8. Cons

9. Safety Notes

10. Product-line notes

11. References

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines