At ORY®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about hydrolyzed silk protein. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.
Animal-derived: ORY® hydrolyzed silk comes from silkworm (Bombyx mori) cocoons and is not vegan. Hydrolyzed rice protein is the plant-based alternative.
How to read this page Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews. Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY® uses. Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly. |
1. General Description and Role
Claim: Hydrolyzed silk protein is made of small peptides from silk’s two proteins, fibroin and sericin. In ORY® products, it helps hair look glossy and feel soft and helps skin feel smooth and hydrated. |
Verification: Supported. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that hydrolyzed silk, sericin, hydrolyzed sericin, fibroin, and hydrolyzed fibroin are safe in the present practices of use and concentration. In human repeat patch tests summarized by CIR, hydrolyzed silk was not irritating or sensitizing.
Citations:
- Johnson, W., Jr., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of silk protein ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 127S–144S (hydrolyzed silk, sericin, hydrolyzed sericin, fibroin, and hydrolyzed fibroin safe in the present practices of use and concentration). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820966953
- What it shows: CIR safety assessment (2020).
- Johnson, W., Jr., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of silk protein ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 127S–144S (hydrolyzed silk, sericin, hydrolyzed sericin, fibroin, and hydrolyzed fibroin safe in the present practices of use and concentration). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820966953
2. Composition and Production
Claim: Silk cocoons are degummed and the fibroin and/or sericin is broken down with acid or enzymes into peptides of defined size. Sericin is rich in the amino acid serine, which binds water. |
Verification: Supported. Chemistry is documented in the CIR report and reviews. “Silk amino acids” (fully broken-down silk) may not be covered by the CIR report.
Citations:
- Johnson, W., Jr., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of silk protein ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 127S–144S (hydrolyzed silk, sericin, hydrolyzed sericin, fibroin, and hydrolyzed fibroin safe in the present practices of use and concentration). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820966953
- What it shows: Describes chemistry.
- Kundu, S. C., Dash, B. C., Dash, R., & Kaplan, D. L. (2008). Natural protective glue protein, sericin bioengineered by silkworms: Potential for biomedical and biotechnological applications. Progress in Polymer Science, 33(10), 998–1012. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.progpolymsci.2008.08.002
- What it shows: Review of sericin.
- Johnson, W., Jr., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of silk protein ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 127S–144S (hydrolyzed silk, sericin, hydrolyzed sericin, fibroin, and hydrolyzed fibroin safe in the present practices of use and concentration). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820966953
3. Skin Type Suitability
Claim: Hydrolyzed silk suits all skin types. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. In a study in people, a sericin gel increased skin hydration. Hydrolyzed wheat protein in a facial soap once caused serious wheat allergy in Japan, so ORY® keeps protein levels low in facial cleansers.
Citations:
- Padamwar, M. N., Pawar, A. P., Daithankar, A. V., & Mahadik, K. R. (2005). Silk sericin as a moisturizer: An in vivo study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 250–257. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2005.00200.x
- What it shows: Human hydration study.
- Fukutomi, Y., Itagaki, Y., Taniguchi, M., et al. (2011). Rhinoconjunctival sensitization to hydrolyzed wheat protein in facial soap can induce wheat-dependent exercise-induced anaphylaxis. Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, 127(2), 531–533. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Rhinoconjunctival%20sensitization%20to%20hydrolyzed%20wheat%20protein%20in%20facial%20soap%20can%20induce%20wheat-dependent%20exercise-induced%20anaphylaxis
- What it shows: Wheat protein soap allergy report.
- Padamwar, M. N., Pawar, A. P., Daithankar, A. V., & Mahadik, K. R. (2005). Silk sericin as a moisturizer: An in vivo study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 250–257. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2005.00200.x
4. Hair and Scalp Suitability
Claim: In haircare, hydrolyzed silk helps hair look glossy and feel soft and smooth. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Reviews describe proteins that bind moisture and form a smooth film on hair; we found no clinical trial of silk protein on hair.
Citations:
- Secchi, G. (2008). Role of protein in cosmetics. Clinics in Dermatology, 26(4), 321–325. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18691510/
- What it shows: Review of protein in cosmetics.
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
- What it shows: Review of hair cosmetics.
- Secchi, G. (2008). Role of protein in cosmetics. Clinics in Dermatology, 26(4), 321–325. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18691510/
5. Benefits
Claim: Hydrolyzed silk helps skin feel hydrated and smooth and hair look glossy. |
Verification: Supported, with caveats. Sericin increased collagen production in skin-cell cultures and absorbs UV in the lab. These are lab findings; ORY® does not make collagen, wound, or sun-protection claims.
Citations:
- Padamwar, M. N., Pawar, A. P., Daithankar, A. V., & Mahadik, K. R. (2005). Silk sericin as a moisturizer: An in vivo study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 250–257. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2005.00200.x
- What it shows: Human study.
- Aramwit, P., Kanokpanont, S., Nakpheng, T., & Srichana, T. (2010). The effect of sericin from various extraction methods on cell viability and collagen production. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 11(5), 2200–2211. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms11052200
- What it shows: Cell study.
- Kundu, S. C., Dash, B. C., Dash, R., & Kaplan, D. L. (2008). Natural protective glue protein, sericin bioengineered by silkworms: Potential for biomedical and biotechnological applications. Progress in Polymer Science, 33(10), 998–1012. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.progpolymsci.2008.08.002
- What it shows: Review.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019, February 26). Sunscreen drug products for over-the-counter human use (proposed rule), 84 FR 6204. https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2019/02/26/2019-03019/sunscreen-drug-products-for-over-the-counter-human-use
- What it shows: FDA sunscreen rules.
- Padamwar, M. N., Pawar, A. P., Daithankar, A. V., & Mahadik, K. R. (2005). Silk sericin as a moisturizer: An in vivo study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 250–257. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2005.00200.x
6. Use Across ORY® Product Lines
Claim: Hydrolyzed silk is used in all four ORY® product lines, including cold-process soap. |
Verification: Supported. In silk soap, raw silk is dissolved in hot lye water or peptides are added at trace.
| Product line | Typical level | How ORY® uses it |
| Skincare | 0.5–2% | Serums, moisturizers, masks, eye and hand creams. |
| Haircare | 0.5–3% | Conditioners, leave-ins, masks, shampoos, and conditioner bars. |
| Handmade Soap | Pinch of silk per lb; 0.5–1% peptides | Classic silk soap. |
| Cosmetics | 0.5–1% | Foundations, primers, mascaras, and lip products. |
Citations:
- Johnson, W., Jr., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of silk protein ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 127S–144S (hydrolyzed silk, sericin, hydrolyzed sericin, fibroin, and hydrolyzed fibroin safe in the present practices of use and concentration). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820966953
- What it shows: Reported uses.
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
- What it shows: FDA definition of soap; other bars are cosmetics.
- Johnson, W., Jr., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of silk protein ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 127S–144S (hydrolyzed silk, sericin, hydrolyzed sericin, fibroin, and hydrolyzed fibroin safe in the present practices of use and concentration). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820966953
7. Pros
Claim: A soft, hydrating protein with a CIR safety conclusion and human hydration data. |
Verification: Supported. Supported by CIR review and a human study.
Citations:
- Johnson, W., Jr., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of silk protein ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 127S–144S (hydrolyzed silk, sericin, hydrolyzed sericin, fibroin, and hydrolyzed fibroin safe in the present practices of use and concentration). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820966953
- What it shows: Safety.
- Padamwar, M. N., Pawar, A. P., Daithankar, A. V., & Mahadik, K. R. (2005). Silk sericin as a moisturizer: An in vivo study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 250–257. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2005.00200.x
- What it shows: Hydration study.
- Johnson, W., Jr., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of silk protein ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 127S–144S (hydrolyzed silk, sericin, hydrolyzed sericin, fibroin, and hydrolyzed fibroin safe in the present practices of use and concentration). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820966953
8. Cons
Claim: Hydrolyzed silk is animal-derived and costly. |
Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:
- Not vegan.
- Cost.
- Rare allergy. Silk dust allergy is documented; patch test.
- Softness over strength. Less structural repair than keratin.
- Preservation. Protein solutions need strong preservation.
Citations:
- Dewair, M., Baur, X., & Ziegler, K. (1985). Use of immunoblot technique for detection of human IgE and IgG antibodies to individual silk proteins. Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, 76(4), 537–542. https://doi.org/10.1016/0091-6749(85)90772-9
- What it shows: Silk allergy study.
- Dewair, M., Baur, X., & Ziegler, K. (1985). Use of immunoblot technique for detection of human IgE and IgG antibodies to individual silk proteins. Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, 76(4), 537–542. https://doi.org/10.1016/0091-6749(85)90772-9
9. Safety Notes
Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only. |
Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:
- Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
- If you have a known silk allergy, avoid products with silk protein.
- Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
- For external use only. Avoid the eyes unless the product is made for the eye area.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.
Citations:
- Johnson, W., Jr., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of silk protein ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 127S–144S (hydrolyzed silk, sericin, hydrolyzed sericin, fibroin, and hydrolyzed fibroin safe in the present practices of use and concentration). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820966953
- What it shows: Safety conclusion.
- Dewair, M., Baur, X., & Ziegler, K. (1985). Use of immunoblot technique for detection of human IgE and IgG antibodies to individual silk proteins. Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, 76(4), 537–542. https://doi.org/10.1016/0091-6749(85)90772-9
- What it shows: Silk allergy.
- Johnson, W., Jr., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of silk protein ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 127S–144S (hydrolyzed silk, sericin, hydrolyzed sericin, fibroin, and hydrolyzed fibroin safe in the present practices of use and concentration). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820966953
10. Product-line notes
- ORY® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
- ORY® Haircare: Designed for the look and feel of hair and scalp comfort. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss.
- ORY® Handmade Soap: Silk soap is made with silk dissolved in the lye water or silk peptides added at trace. Handmade soap is naturally alkaline, and each bar may vary slightly. Not intended to treat eczema or any skin condition.
- ORY® Cosmetics: Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.
11. References
Peer-reviewed research
- Aramwit, P., Kanokpanont, S., Nakpheng, T., & Srichana, T. (2010). The effect of sericin from various extraction methods on cell viability and collagen production. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 11(5), 2200–2211. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms11052200
- Dewair, M., Baur, X., & Ziegler, K. (1985). Use of immunoblot technique for detection of human IgE and IgG antibodies to individual silk proteins. Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, 76(4), 537–542. https://doi.org/10.1016/0091-6749(85)90772-9
- Fukutomi, Y., Itagaki, Y., Taniguchi, M., et al. (2011). Rhinoconjunctival sensitization to hydrolyzed wheat protein in facial soap can induce wheat-dependent exercise-induced anaphylaxis. Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, 127(2), 531–533. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/?term=Rhinoconjunctival%20sensitization%20to%20hydrolyzed%20wheat%20protein%20in%20facial%20soap%20can%20induce%20wheat-dependent%20exercise-induced%20anaphylaxis
- Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2–15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25878443/
- Johnson, W., Jr., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., et al. (2020). Safety assessment of silk protein ingredients as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 39(3 Suppl), 127S–144S (hydrolyzed silk, sericin, hydrolyzed sericin, fibroin, and hydrolyzed fibroin safe in the present practices of use and concentration). https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581820966953
- Kundu, S. C., Dash, B. C., Dash, R., & Kaplan, D. L. (2008). Natural protective glue protein, sericin bioengineered by silkworms: Potential for biomedical and biotechnological applications. Progress in Polymer Science, 33(10), 998–1012. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.progpolymsci.2008.08.002
- Padamwar, M. N., Pawar, A. P., Daithankar, A. V., & Mahadik, K. R. (2005). Silk sericin as a moisturizer: An in vivo study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 4(4), 250–257. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2005.00200.x
- Secchi, G. (2008). Role of protein in cosmetics. Clinics in Dermatology, 26(4), 321–325. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18691510/
Government and regulatory sources
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2019, February 26). Sunscreen drug products for over-the-counter human use (proposed rule), 84 FR 6204. https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2019/02/26/2019-03019/sunscreen-drug-products-for-over-the-counter-human-use
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. 21 CFR 701.20 — Definition of “soap” (only true soap, made mainly of alkali salts of fatty acids and sold only as soap, is exempt from cosmetic rules). https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-G/part-701/subpart-B/section-701.20
