Citrate (Citric Acid)

At ORY^®, we believe you should know what’s in your products and why. This page lists the published research behind what we say about allantoin. Each section starts with our claim, then tells you how well the research supports it, then lists the sources so you can read them yourself.

How to read this page Supported — backed by peer-reviewed research or official safety reviews. Supported, with caveats — the research points this way, but mostly from laboratory or animal studies, or at different strengths than ORY® uses. Limited evidence — little or no published research yet. We say so openly.

1. General Description and Role

Claim: Citric acid, the natural acid of citrus fruit, is made today by fermentation. Its salts are called citrates. In ORY® products it adjusts and buffers pH, binds hard-water minerals, helps protect formulas from oxidation, and, at higher levels, gently exfoliates.

Verification: Supported. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel found citric acid and its salts safe as used in cosmetics. Its pH-adjusting and chelating functions are standard formulation chemistry. Citations:

• • Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B. A., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2014). Safety assessment of citric acid, inorganic citrate salts, and alkyl citrate esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 33(2 Suppl), 16S–46S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581814526891
    • What it shows: CIR safety assessment of citric acid and citrates.
  • Tang, S. C., & Yang, J. H. (2018). Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin. Molecules, 23(4), 863. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29642579/
    • What it shows: Review of alpha hydroxy acids, including citric acid.

2. Composition and Production

Claim: Citric acid (C₆H₈O₇) is produced by fermenting sugars and is identical to citrus-derived acid. Sodium and potassium citrate are neutralized salts that buffer and chelate but do not exfoliate.

Verification: Supported. Chemistry and production are well documented. Citations:

• • Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B. A., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2014). Safety assessment of citric acid, inorganic citrate salts, and alkyl citrate esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 33(2 Suppl), 16S–46S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581814526891
    • What it shows: Describes citric acid and citrate salts.

3. Skin Type Suitability

Claim: At pH-adjusting levels, citric acid suits every skin type. As an exfoliant, it suits oily, combination, normal, and mature skin; dry and sensitive skin should choose gentler options.

Verification: Supported. Exfoliating acids can sting sensitive skin. Citations:

• • Tang, S. C., & Yang, J. H. (2018). Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin. Molecules, 23(4), 863. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29642579/
    • What it shows: Benefits and irritation of AHAs.

4. Hair and Scalp Suitability

Claim: In haircare, citric acid adjusts pH, and in acidic rinses it helps hair feel smoother and look shinier and helps remove hard-water buildup.

Verification: Limited evidence. pH adjustment and chelation are standard formulation functions. We found no clinical studies of citric acid rinses on hair. ORY^® haircare products are not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions. Citations:

• • Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B. A., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2014). Safety assessment of citric acid, inorganic citrate salts, and alkyl citrate esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 33(2 Suppl), 16S–46S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581814526891
    • What it shows: Describes chelating and pH functions.

5. Benefits

Claim: Citric acid balances formula pH, helps protect formulas from metal-driven spoilage, and, in exfoliating products, helps skin look smoother and brighter.

Verification: Supported, with caveats. A controlled study found a 20% citric acid lotion increased the thickness of the living skin layer and glycosaminoglycan content in sun-damaged skin. That strength is well above ORY^® home-use levels, so results at lower strengths may be milder. Citations:

• • Bernstein, E. F., Underhill, C. B., Lakkakorpi, J., et al. (1997). Citric acid increases viable epidermal thickness and glycosaminoglycan content of sun-damaged skin. Dermatologic Surgery, 23(8), 689–694. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/9256916/
    • What it shows: Study of 20% citric acid on sun-damaged skin.
  • Tang, S. C., & Yang, J. H. (2018). Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin. Molecules, 23(4), 863. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29642579/
    • What it shows: Review of AHA effects.

6. Use Across ORY^® Product Lines

Claim: Citric acid is used in nearly every ORY® product; in soap it becomes sodium citrate.

Verification: Supported. In soap, citric acid reacts with lye to form sodium citrate, which binds hard-water minerals. About 0.62 g of extra sodium hydroxide is needed per gram of citric acid. ORY^® exfoliating leave-on products stay at 10% or less with pH 3.5 or higher, the limits the CIR set for glycolic and lactic acid, and carry a sun-sensitivity statement.

Product line	Typical level	How ORY® uses it
Skincare	0.1–1% functional; 2–5% exfoliating	pH adjuster and chelator; exfoliating toners.
Haircare	0.1–1% functional; 1–3% rinses	pH adjuster; clarifying and acidic rinses.
Handmade Soap	1–3% of oil weight	Converted to sodium citrate to reduce soap scum.
Cosmetics	0.05–0.5%	pH adjuster and chelator.

Citations:

• • Andersen, F. A. (Ed.). (1998). Final report on the safety assessment of glycolic acid, ammonium, calcium, potassium, and sodium glycolates, methyl, ethyl, propyl, and butyl glycolates, and lactic acid, ammonium, calcium, potassium, sodium, and TEA-lactates, methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, and butyl lactates, and lauryl, myristyl, and cetyl lactates. International Journal of Toxicology, 17(Suppl 1), 1–241. https://doi.org/10.1177/109158189801700101
    • What it shows: CIR concentration and pH limits for AHA consumer products (glycolic and lactic acid).
  • S. Food and Drug Administration. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (including the 2005 guidance, Labeling for Cosmetics Containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids). https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/alpha-hydroxy-acids
    • What it shows: FDA guidance on AHA sun-sensitivity labeling.
  • S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap
    • What it shows: FDA explains how soap is regulated.

7. Pros

Claim: An essential, affordable formulation tool that improves stability and works in every ORY® line.

Verification: Supported. Supported by the CIR review and standard chemistry. Citations:

• • Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B. A., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2014). Safety assessment of citric acid, inorganic citrate salts, and alkyl citrate esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 33(2 Suppl), 16S–46S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581814526891
    • What it shows: Safety and function.

8. Cons

Claim: Citric acid is a weak exfoliant, can sting at exfoliating levels, and can increase sun sensitivity in exfoliating products.

Verification: Supported. We list these limits so you have the full picture:

• • Weak exfoliant. Less effective than glycolic or lactic acid at cosmetic levels.
  • Possible at exfoliating strengths.
  • Sun sensitivity. Use sunscreen with exfoliating products.
  • Soap math. Extra lye must be calculated precisely.

Citations:

• • S. Food and Drug Administration. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (including the 2005 guidance, Labeling for Cosmetics Containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids). https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/alpha-hydroxy-acids
    • What it shows: Sun sensitivity guidance.

9. Safety Notes

Claim: Patch test before use; for external use only.

Verification: Supported. Follow these precautions:

• • Patch test any new product on a small area for 24–48 hours before full use.
  • Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily when using exfoliating products.
  • Stop use if redness, burning, itching, or rash occurs, and talk to a healthcare provider.
  • For external use only. Avoid the eyes. Do not use on broken or seriously damaged skin.
  • If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, ask a healthcare provider before use.

Citations:

• • Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B. A., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2014). Safety assessment of citric acid, inorganic citrate salts, and alkyl citrate esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 33(2 Suppl), 16S–46S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581814526891
    • What it shows: Safety data reviewed by the CIR.

Product-line notes

• • ORY^® Skincare: For external use only. Not for deep or puncture wounds, animal bites, or serious burns.
  • ORY^® Haircare: Designed for scalp comfort and the look and feel of hair. Not intended to treat dandruff or scalp conditions, or to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss. If you notice sudden shedding or a persistent itchy, flaking scalp, see a dermatologist.
  • ORY^® Handmade Soap: Handmade soap is naturally alkaline, and each bar may vary slightly in color, scent, and texture. Not intended to treat eczema or any skin condition.
  • ORY^® Cosmetics: Lip products are not intended to treat or protect chapped or cracked lips. Do not share applicators, and replace any product that changes color, smell, or texture.

References

Peer-reviewed research

1. 1. Andersen, F. A. (Ed.). (1998). Final report on the safety assessment of glycolic acid, ammonium, calcium, potassium, and sodium glycolates, methyl, ethyl, propyl, and butyl glycolates, and lactic acid, ammonium, calcium, potassium, sodium, and TEA-lactates, methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, and butyl lactates, and lauryl, myristyl, and cetyl lactates. International Journal of Toxicology, 17(Suppl 1), 1–241. https://doi.org/10.1177/109158189801700101
   2. Bernstein, E. F., Underhill, C. B., Lakkakorpi, J., et al. (1997). Citric acid increases viable epidermal thickness and glycosaminoglycan content of sun-damaged skin. Dermatologic Surgery, 23(8), 689–694. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/9256916/
   3. Fiume, M. M., Heldreth, B. A., Bergfeld, W. F., et al. (2014). Safety assessment of citric acid, inorganic citrate salts, and alkyl citrate esters as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology, 33(2 Suppl), 16S–46S. https://doi.org/10.1177/1091581814526891
   4. Tang, S. C., & Yang, J. H. (2018). Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin. Molecules, 23(4), 863. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29642579/

Government and regulatory sources

• • S. Food and Drug Administration. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (including the 2005 guidance, Labeling for Cosmetics Containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids). https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/alpha-hydroxy-acids
  • S. Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?) https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/it-cosmetic-drug-or-both-or-it-soap