PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

ORY® product lines:

☑ Skincare (solubilizer for water-based products)

☑ Haircare

◐ Handmade Soap (liquid soap and bath products; not cold-process)

☑ Cosmetics — three-line functional ingredient (PEG-type)

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is a non-ionic solubilizer made by attaching about 40 ethylene-oxide units to hydrogenated castor oil. Its job is to make oil-soluble things disappear into water: essential oils, fragrances, vitamin E, bakuchiol, and botanical oils can be dispersed into clear toners, mists, micellar waters, shampoos, and bath products without clouding or separating — at roughly 3–5 parts solubilizer per part of oil. It is one of the most effective and widely used solubilizers in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, with a low irritation profile, and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel has concluded PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is safe as used [1]. Because it is ethoxylated it is excluded from COSMOS/Ecocert standards and must be sourced with controlled 1,4-dioxane residues, so ORY® uses it where clarity and performance matter and offers PEG-free solubilizers (e.g., polyglyceryl esters, decyl glucoside) for natural-positioned products.

What is PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil made of?

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is produced by hydrogenating castor oil (saturating ricinoleic acid to 12-hydroxystearic) and ethoxylating with ~40 moles of ethylene oxide. Points to know [1, 2]:

    • Non-ionic surfactant; HLB ~14–16: Strong oil-in-water solubilizing power.
    • Physical form: Pale yellow paste/liquid (warm to handle); water-dispersible; nearly odorless.
    • Solubilization ratio: Typically 3:1 to 5:1 solubilizer:essential oil for a clear solution; pre-mix the oil with the solubilizer before adding to water.
    • pH 3–10, heat-stable; compatible with anionic, cationic, and non-ionic systems.
    • Residual 1,4-dioxane <10 ppm and ethylene oxide non-detectable required; not COSMOS/Ecocert-approved.
    • Typical use: 0.5–5% (scaled to the oil load).

What skin type is best suited for PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil?

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is a formulation-level ingredient suitable for all seven ORY® skin types at use levels:

    • Oily: Enables oil-free clear toners and mists carrying essential oils or actives.
    • Acne-prone: Solubilizes tea tree or bakuchiol into water-based products.
    • Combination and Normal: Clear mists and micellar waters.
    • Dry: Disperses nourishing oils into hydrating toners.
    • Mature: Carries vitamin E and oil-soluble antioxidants into water-based serums.
    • Sensitive: Low irritation at use levels [1]; some prefer PEG-free — ORY® offers alternatives.

What hair type is best suited for PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil?

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil disperses oils into water-based haircare:

    • Oily scalp: Solubilizes rosemary or tea tree oil in water-based scalp toners.
    • Dandruff-prone scalp: Carries essential oils in scalp rinses and mists.
    • Curly and coily: Adds oils to refresh sprays and curl mists.
    • Dry or damaged: Disperses argan or squalane into leave-in sprays.
    • Straight, wavy, color-treated, sensitive scalp, mature or thinning: Functional; neutral for hair type.

What are the benefits of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil?

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil’s benefits are functional [1, 2]:

    • Powerful solubilizer: Clear water-based products carrying oils, fragrances, and oil-soluble actives.
    • Broad compatibility: Works with all surfactant classes; pH 3–10.
    • Low irritation: CIR-reviewed [1]; used in pharmaceutical formulations.
    • Nearly odorless: Does not interfere with fragrance.
    • Bath and liquid-soap dispersant: Keeps oils dispersed; prevents slippery tubs.
    • Micellar cleansing: Basis of micellar waters (lifts oil and makeup).
    • Stable: Heat- and pH-tolerant.

Dual use across ORY® product lines

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil serves water-based products in skincare, haircare, and cosmetics, and liquid/bath soap products; not cold-process bars.

ORY® line Dual use? How it is used Typical level
ORY® Skincare
Yes
Toners, mists, micellar waters, gel serums, bath oils and salts (solubilized), after-sun sprays.
0.5–5%
ORY® Haircare
Yes
Scalp toners and mists, leave-in sprays, clarifying rinses, shampoos (fragrance).
0.5–3%
ORY® Handmade Soap
Limited
Liquid soap, bath bombs/salts, bubble bath (disperses fragrance and oils); not cold-process bars.
1–5%
ORY® Cosmetics
Yes
Setting sprays, micellar makeup removers, brush cleansers, clear gels.
0.5–3%

Pros and cons of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Pros

Cons

    • Best-in-class clarity: Crystal-clear solubilization.
    • Broad compatibility: All surfactant classes.
    • CIR-reviewed: [1].
    • Pharmaceutical pedigree: Widely used in drug formulations.
    • Affordable: Economical.
    • Ethoxylated (PEG): Excluded from COSMOS/Ecocert and some clean-beauty lists.
    • 1,4-dioxane control: Requires certified low-residue grades.
    • Tacky at high loads: Balance with glycols.
    • Paste form: Warm to handle.
    • Perception: Offer PEG-free alternatives on request.

What is the best application of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil?

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is pre-mixed with oils before adding to water:

    • Toner or mist with essential oils: Mix 0.5% essential oil with 2% solubilizer, then add to water.
    • Micellar water: 1–2% for makeup removal.
    • Bath oil or salts: 3–5× the oil weight so oils disperse in the tub.
    • Scalp toner: Solubilize rosemary/tea tree oil at 3:1.
    • Liquid soap or bubble bath: 1–3% for fragrance dispersion.
    • Cosmetics: Setting spray; brush cleanser.

Peer-reviewed references

  1. Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Final report on the safety assessment of PEG-30, -33, -35, -36, and -40 castor oil and PEG-30 and -40 hydrogenated castor oil. International Journal of Toxicology. 1997;16(3):269–306.
  2. Lundov MD, Moesby L, Zachariae C, Johansen JD. Contamination versus preservation of cosmetics: a review on legislation, usage, infections, and contact allergy. Contact Dermatitis. 2009;60(2):70–78.

Disclaimer:

The information on this page is provided by ORY International, LC for educational purposes only. It summarizes published research about PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil as an ingredient, including laboratory and animal studies and clinical studies of formulas that may differ from ORY® products. Results from these studies may not apply to every person or to ORY® products. This page is not medical advice and does not replace advice from a dermatologist, physician, or other qualified healthcare provider.

ORY® Skincare, Haircare, Handmade Soap, and Cosmetics products are cosmetics. They are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, mitigate, or prevent any disease or condition, including eczema, dermatitis, acne, dandruff, or any other condition. References to FDA or Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) findings describe the ingredient, not ORY® products, and do not mean FDA has reviewed or approved any ORY® product.

Results vary by skin and scalp type, formulation, and use. PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is rarely irritating at use levels. Any cosmetic can cause irritation, sometimes from other ingredients. Always patch test, follow label directions, and stop use if irritation occurs. If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, consult a healthcare provider before use.

ORY International, LC works to keep this page accurate and current but makes no warranty as to its completeness. To the fullest extent permitted by law, ORY International, LC is not liable for any loss or injury arising from reliance on this information or from use of any product contrary to its label directions. To report a reaction, contact us at [insert contact email / phone].

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