ORY® product lines:
☑ Skincare
☑ Haircare (scalp cooling)
◐ Handmade Soap (liquid/syndet; hydrolyzes to menthol in cold process — still cooling)
☑ Cosmetics (lip plumpers, cooling primers) — dual-use ingredient
Menthyl lactate is the ester of menthol and lactic acid — a “second-generation” cooling agent that activates the same cold receptor as menthol (TRPM8) but with a slower onset, longer duration, far less odor, and much less stinging [1, 2]. Where menthol delivers a sharp, sometimes irritating blast, menthyl lactate gives a gentle, sustained cool that suits facial products, after-sun gels, eye gels, scalp tonics, and lip plumpers. It has been evaluated for fragrance-ingredient safety by RIFM [3], and menthol-class cooling relieves itch and the sensation of heat [1]. In cold-process soap, the ester hydrolyzes back to menthol and lactate — which still cools — but the refined, long-lasting character is best preserved in liquid and leave-on products.
What is Menthyl Lactate made of?
Menthyl lactate is made by esterifying natural l-menthol (from Mentha arvensis) with lactic acid. Points to know [2, 3]:
- Menthol–lactic acid ester: White crystalline powder; melts ~40–45 °C; oil-soluble (dissolve in warm oil, ethanol, or glycol).
- TRPM8 agonist: Triggers the cold-sensing receptor; onset 1–3 minutes, duration up to 60 minutes — longer than menthol [2].
- Low odor, low volatility: Nearly odorless versus menthol’s strong minty smell.
- Low irritation: Markedly less stinging than menthol at equal cooling [1, 2].
- Typical use: 0.2–1% skincare; 0.5–2% scalp and body; 0.1–0.5% lip.
What skin type is best suited for Menthyl Lactate?
Menthyl lactate suits all seven ORY® skin types thanks to its gentle profile:
- Sensitive: Gentle cooling without menthol’s sting; ideal for after-sun and redness relief [1].
- Oily: Refreshing toners and gels.
- Acne-prone: Cooling in blemish gels; non-comedogenic.
- Normal: Refreshing eye gels, mists, and body products.
- Combination: Cooling gel-creams.
- Dry: Cooling in after-sun creams (pair with emollients).
- Mature: Cooling eye and de-puffing products.
What hair type is best suited for Menthyl Lactate?
Menthyl lactate cools and refreshes the scalp gently:
- Oily scalp: Cooling, refreshing scalp tonics and shampoos.
- Dandruff-prone scalp: Relieves itch (TRPM8) in anti-dandruff products [1].
- Sensitive scalp: Gentler than menthol for itchy, reactive scalps.
- Mature or thinning: Cooling scalp serums with rosemary and caffeine.
- Straight, wavy, curly, coily, dry or damaged, color-treated: Refreshing scalp products; neutral for the fiber.
What are the benefits of Menthyl Lactate?
Menthyl lactate’s benefits are supported by cooling-compound pharmacology and safety assessment [1–3]:
- Long-lasting cooling: Sustained TRPM8 activation up to an hour [2].
- Itch relief: Cooling counteracts itch and heat sensation [1].
- Low irritation and odor: Suitable for face, eye-area, and lip products.
- After-sun and post-procedure comfort: Soothing cool without sting.
- Sensory refreshment: Customers feel it work.
- Scalp comfort: Itchy, hot, or oily scalps.
- Lip plumping: Mild cooling flush.
- Fragrance-neutral: Does not interfere with scent design.
Dual use across ORY® product lines
Menthyl lactate serves leave-on and liquid products in all four lines, with the caveat that cold-process soap hydrolyzes it to menthol.
| ORY® line | Dual use? | How it is used | Typical level |
|---|---|---|---|
|
ORY® Skincare |
Yes |
After-sun gels, eye gels, cooling toners and mists, blemish gels, foot and leg gels, body lotions. |
0.2–1% |
|
ORY® Haircare |
Yes |
Cooling scalp tonics and serums, anti-itch shampoos, refreshing conditioners. |
0.5–2% |
|
ORY® Handmade Soap |
Limited |
Liquid soap and syndet bars (0.5–1%) for a gentle cool; in cold-process bars it hydrolyzes to menthol (still cooling but sharper). |
0.5–1% liquid/syndet |
|
ORY® Cosmetics |
Yes |
Lip plumpers and balms, cooling primers, eye-area products. |
0.1–0.5% |
Pros and cons of Menthyl Lactate
Pros
Cons
- Gentler than menthol: Face- and eye-area friendly [2].
- Long-lasting cool: Up to 60 minutes.
- Nearly odorless: Fragrance-neutral.
- Itch relief: [1].
- RIFM-assessed: [3].
- Solubility: Needs warm oil, ethanol, or glycol to dissolve.
- Delayed onset: Customers expecting instant menthol blast may wait a few minutes.
- Hydrolysis in cold-process soap: Reverts to menthol.
- Not for very young children’s faces: Menthol-class caution under age 6.
- Cost: Higher than menthol.
What is the best application of Menthyl Lactate?
Menthyl lactate is dissolved into cooling products:
- After-sun gel: 0.5% with aloe and panthenol.
- Eye gel: 0.2% with caffeine (avoid direct eye contact).
- Cooling toner or mist: 0.3% solubilized.
- Foot or leg gel: 1%.
- Scalp tonic: 1% with rosemary and peppermint (reduced) for a refined cool.
- Anti-itch shampoo: 0.5–1%.
- Lip plumper: 0.2–0.5%.
- Liquid soap: 0.5%.
Peer-reviewed references
- Patel T, Ishiuji Y, Yosipovitch G. Menthol: a refreshing look at this ancient compound. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 2007;57(5):873–878.
- Bharate SS, Bharate SB. Modulation of thermoreceptor TRPM8 by cooling compounds. ACS Chemical Neuroscience. 2012;3(4):248–267.
- Api AM, Belsito D, Botelho D, et al. RIFM fragrance ingredient safety assessment, l-menthyl lactate, CAS registry number 59259-38-0. Food and Chemical Toxicology. 2021;149(Suppl 1):111962.
Disclaimer:
The information on this page is provided by ORY International, LC for educational purposes only. It summarizes published research about menthyl lactate as an ingredient, including laboratory and animal studies and clinical studies of formulas that may differ from ORY® products. Results from these studies may not apply to every person or to ORY® products. This page is not medical advice and does not replace advice from a dermatologist, physician, or other qualified healthcare provider.
ORY® Skincare, Haircare, Handmade Soap, and Cosmetics products are cosmetics. They are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, mitigate, or prevent any disease or condition, including itching, pain, sunburn, insect bites, dandruff, or any other condition. References to FDA or Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) findings describe the ingredient, not ORY® products, and do not mean FDA has reviewed or approved any ORY® product.
Results vary by skin and scalp type, formulation, and use. Cooling agents can cause stinging or irritation in some people, especially near the eyes, and any cosmetic can cause irritation, sometimes from other ingredients. Always patch test, follow label directions, and stop use if irritation occurs. If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, consult a healthcare provider before use.
ORY International, LC works to keep this page accurate and current but makes no warranty as to its completeness. To the fullest extent permitted by law, ORY International, LC is not liable for any loss or injury arising from reliance on this information or from use of any product contrary to its label directions. To report a reaction, contact us at [insert contact email / phone].
