ORY® product lines:
☑ Skincare
☑ Haircare
☑ Handmade Soap (the primary syndet-bar and shampoo-bar surfactant)
☑ Cosmetics — full dual-use functional ingredient
Sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) is the surfactant that made the modern “beauty bar” possible: an anionic, coconut-derived ester that cleanses with a dense, creamy, lotion-like lather while leaving skin feeling soft rather than tight. Syndet bars built on isethionates are markedly milder than true soap because they clean at skin-friendly pH (5–6) and strip fewer barrier lipids — the mildness technology reviewed in the cleansing literature [1, 3]. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel has concluded SCI is safe as used [2]. Solid at room temperature, it is the backbone of ORY® solid shampoo bars and syndet cleansing bars, and a foaming, softening ingredient in liquid cleansers and cosmetics. Its main limitations are low water solubility (it must be melted in) and dust irritation during handling of the powder.
What is Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate made of?
SCI is produced by esterifying coconut fatty acids (C12-dominant) with sodium isethionate. Points to know [2]:
- Anionic isethionate ester: Mild, high-foaming; hydrolyzes slowly above pH 7 (formulate at pH 5–6.5).
- Physical form: White powder, prills, or noodles; ~85% active; melts ~80–85 °C; poorly water-soluble at room temperature (disperse warm or melt into bars).
- Lotion-like lather: Dense, creamy foam even in hard water.
- Compatibility: Anionic and amphoteric surfactants; cationic conditioners at moderate levels (2-in-1 bars).
- Biodegradable; palm-free coconut grades; typical use 20–60% in bars, 3–15% in liquids.
What skin type is best suited for Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate?
SCI suits all seven ORY® skin types and is the gentlest bar-cleansing technology:
- Sensitive: Sodium cocoyl isethionate is among the milder cleansing surfactants; suitable for reactive and eczema-prone skin (patch test).
- Dry: Low-stripping cleansing preserves barrier lipids; pair with glycerin and oils.
- Normal: Everyday gentle cleansing.
- Combination: Balanced foaming cleansers.
- Oily: Creamy, effective cleansing with a soft after-feel.
- Acne-prone: Gentle base for salicylic-acid or tea-tree cleansers.
- Mature: Non-stripping cleansing for thinning, drier skin.
What hair type is best suited for Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate?
SCI is the backbone of solid shampoo bars for every hair type:
- Sensitive scalp: SCI-based shampoos reduce scalp irritation compared with sulfates.
- Dry or damaged: Low-stripping cleansing preserves natural oils.
- Curly and coily: Sulfate-free and low-poo formulas.
- Color-treated or chemically processed: Gentle cleansing prolongs color.
- Dandruff-prone scalp: Mild base for antifungal or salicylic-acid shampoos.
- Oily scalp: Adequate cleansing; pair with a stronger co-surfactant for heavy oil.
- Straight, wavy, mature or thinning: Gentle daily-use shampoos.
What are the benefits of Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate?
SCI’s benefits are documented in cleansing science and safety review [1–3]:
- Mild, pH-balanced cleansing: Syndet bars strip fewer barrier lipids than true soap [1, 3].
- Dense, creamy lather: Lotion-like foam; performs in hard water.
- Soft after-feel: No tight, squeaky finish.
- Solid-bar capability: The primary surfactant of shampoo and syndet bars.
- Foam boosting in liquids: Enhances glucoside and betaine systems.
- Biodegradable, coconut-derived: Natural-origin.
- CIR-reviewed safe: [2].
Dual use across ORY® product lines
SCI is a true four-line ingredient because it is the handmade syndet bar: ORY®‘s solid shampoo and cleansing bars sold alongside cold-process soap are built on it.
| ORY® line | Dual use? | How it is used | Typical level |
|---|---|---|---|
|
ORY® Skincare |
Yes |
Facial and body cleansing bars (syndet), creamy liquid cleansers, cleansing powders. |
3–15% liquid; 30–60% bars |
|
ORY® Haircare |
Yes |
Solid shampoo bars, 2-in-1 bars, creamy shampoos. |
5–15% liquid; 40–60% bars |
|
ORY® Handmade Soap |
Yes |
The primary surfactant of pH-balanced syndet cleansing bars and shampoo bars (not a soap, but a handmade bar). |
30–60% |
|
ORY® Cosmetics |
Yes |
Cleansing balm-to-foam, makeup-removing bars, brush-cleaning bars. |
5–30% |
Pros and cons of Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Pros
Cons
- Mildest bar technology: [1, 3].
- Luxurious lather: Customer-pleasing.
- Enables solid, plastic-free products: Shampoo and cleansing bars.
- Hard-water performance: Unlike soap.
- CIR-reviewed: [2].
- Low solubility: Must be melted or dispersed warm.
- Powder dust irritation: Wear a mask; prefer noodles/prills.
- Hydrolyzes above pH 7: Keep pH 5–6.5.
- Cost: Higher than soap oils.
- Synthetic processing: Not COSMOS-approved in most standards.
What is the best application of Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate?
SCI is the base of bars and creamy cleansers:
- Shampoo bar: 50% SCI + 10% coco-glucoside (solid) + 10% BTMS + oils/butters; pH 5.5.
- Syndet cleansing bar: 40% SCI + 15% SCI/glucoside + shea/oat/colloidal oat.
- Creamy facial cleanser: 5–8% SCI dispersed warm with CAPB.
- Cleansing powder: 20–30% SCI with oat flour and clay.
- Cosmetics: Makeup-removing bar.
Peer-reviewed references
- Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Moore DJ, Subramanyan K, Misra M, Meyer F. Cleansing without compromise: the impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic Therapy. 2004;17(Suppl 1):16–25.
- Elder RL (ed). Final report on the safety assessment of sodium cocoyl isethionate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology. 1993;12(4):375–385.
- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: cleansers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2018;17(1):8–14.
Disclaimer:
The information on this page is provided by ORY International, LC for educational purposes only. It summarizes published research about sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) as an ingredient, including laboratory and animal studies and clinical studies of formulas that may differ from ORY® products. Results from these studies may not apply to every person or to ORY® products. This page is not medical advice and does not replace advice from a dermatologist, physician, or other qualified healthcare provider.
ORY® Skincare, Haircare, Handmade Soap, and Cosmetics products are cosmetics. They are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, mitigate, or prevent any disease or condition, including eczema, dermatitis, acne, dandruff, or any other condition. References to FDA or Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) findings describe the ingredient, not ORY® products, and do not mean FDA has reviewed or approved any ORY® product.
Results vary by skin and scalp type, formulation, and use. SCI powder can irritate the airways during handling; finished products are mild. Any cosmetic can cause irritation, sometimes from other ingredients. Always patch test, follow label directions, and stop use if irritation occurs. If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, consult a healthcare provider before use.
ORY International, LC works to keep this page accurate and current but makes no warranty as to its completeness. To the fullest extent permitted by law, ORY International, LC is not liable for any loss or injury arising from reliance on this information or from use of any product contrary to its label directions. To report a reaction, contact us at [insert contact email / phone].
