ORY® product lines:
☑ Skincare (gentlest facial cleansing)
☑ Haircare (sulfate-free shampoos)
◐ Handmade Soap (liquid soap, syndet and shampoo bars)
☑ Cosmetics (makeup removers) — three-line functional ingredient
Sodium cocoyl glutamate is an amino-acid surfactant — coconut fatty acids joined to glutamic acid, the amino acid most abundant in the skin’s natural moisturizing factor — and it is widely regarded as the mildest anionic cleansing agent in general use. Amino-acid surfactants cleanse with minimal protein denaturation and barrier disruption, leaving skin at its natural acidic pH with a soft, non-tight after-feel [1, 2], and glutamate-based systems are the basis of Japanese “amino-acid cleansers” for sensitive and dry skin. It produces a fine, creamy, moderate lather, is biodegradable, COSMOS/Ecocert-approved, and compatible with glucosides and amphoterics. Its trade-offs are lower foam than sulfates and sarcosinates and a higher price — accepted for the gentlest ORY® facial cleansers, baby washes, and sulfate-free shampoos.
What is Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate made of?
Sodium cocoyl glutamate is made by acylating L-glutamic acid (from sugar fermentation) with coconut fatty-acid chloride and neutralizing with sodium hydroxide (mono- or disodium salt). Points to know [1, 2]:
- N-acyl glutamate anionic surfactant: Two carboxyl groups; mild; skin-pH compatible (pH 5–6.5).
- Supplied as ~25–30% solution or 90% powder: Clear liquid; pH ~6–7 as supplied.
- Creamy, fine lather; moderate foam; conditioning after-feel.
- COSMOS/Ecocert-approved, biodegradable, coconut- and fermentation-derived; palm-free grades.
- Compatibility: Amphoterics, non-ionics, other mild anionics; limited with cationics.
- Typical use: 5–20% (as supplied) as primary surfactant; 3–10% as mildness co-surfactant.
What skin type is best suited for Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate?
Sodium cocoyl glutamate is the gentlest cleanser for all seven ORY® skin types:
- Sensitive: The core use — minimal barrier disruption; amino-acid cleansing for reactive and eczema-prone skin [1, 2].
- Dry: Non-stripping; leaves skin soft, not tight.
- Mature: Gentle daily cleansing.
- Normal: Everyday creamy cleansing.
- Combination: Balanced gentle foam.
- Oily: Pair with a stronger co-surfactant for heavy oil.
- Acne-prone: Mild base for salicylic-acid cleansers.
What hair type is best suited for Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate?
Sodium cocoyl glutamate is the mildest sulfate-free shampoo surfactant:
- Sensitive scalp: Amino-acid cleansing reduces irritation.
- Dry or damaged: Non-stripping; preserves natural oils.
- Curly and coily: Low-poo and co-wash formulas.
- Color-treated: Gentle cleansing prolongs color.
- Straight, wavy, mature or thinning: Daily gentle shampoos.
- Oily and dandruff-prone scalp: Pair with SLGC or sarcosinate for cleansing power.
What are the benefits of Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate?
Sodium cocoyl glutamate’s benefits are documented in surfactant-mildness research [1–3]:
- Mildest anionic cleansing: Minimal protein denaturation and barrier disruption [1, 2].
- Skin-pH compatible: Works at pH 5–6.5.
- Soft after-feel: No tightness; conditioning.
- Creamy fine lather: Elegant foam.
- Natural-origin, COSMOS-approved, biodegradable: Clean-label.
- Mildness booster: Lowers irritation of surfactant blends.
- Amino-acid heritage: Glutamate is an NMF component.
Dual use across ORY® product lines
Sodium cocoyl glutamate serves cleansers, shampoos, liquid soaps, and syndet bars; not cold-process soap.
| ORY® line | Dual use? | How it is used | Typical level |
|---|---|---|---|
|
ORY® Skincare |
Yes |
Sensitive-skin and amino-acid facial cleansers, baby washes, cleansing milks and balms-to-foam. |
5–20% |
|
ORY® Haircare |
Yes |
Gentle sulfate-free shampoos, low-poo cleansers, co-washes. |
10–25% |
|
ORY® Handmade Soap |
Limited |
Natural liquid soaps, syndet bars, shampoo bars (powder grade); not cold-process bars. |
10–30% |
|
ORY® Cosmetics |
Yes |
Gentle makeup-removing cleansers, brush cleansers. |
3–10% |
Pros and cons of Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Pros
Cons
- Gentlest anionic surfactant: [1, 2].
- COSMOS-approved, biodegradable: Clean-label.
- Skin-pH compatible: Barrier-friendly.
- Creamy elegant lather: Premium feel.
- Sensitive-skin fit: Broad suitability.
- Lower foam: Pair with glucosides/amphoterics or SLGC for richer lather.
- Cost: Higher than sulfates and glucosides.
- Limited cationic compatibility: Not for cationic 2-in-1s.
- Viscosity: Thin; needs thickening.
- Less recognition: Requires education (“amino-acid cleanser”).
What is the best application of Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate?
Sodium cocoyl glutamate is the primary surfactant in ORY® gentlest cleansers:
- Amino-acid facial cleanser: 12% with 5% CAPB and 3% coco-glucoside; pH 5.5–6.
- Baby wash: 10% with cocoamphoacetate.
- Gentle shampoo: 15% with SLGC and CAPB.
- Cleansing milk: 5–8%.
- Liquid soap or syndet bar: 10–30%.
- Cosmetics: Makeup-removing cleanser.
Peer-reviewed references
- Ananthapadmanabhan KP, Moore DJ, Subramanyan K, Misra M, Meyer F. Cleansing without compromise: the impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic Therapy. 2004;17(Suppl 1):16–25.
- Seweryn A. Interactions between surfactants and the skin – theory and practice. Advances in Colloid and Interface Science. 2018;256:242–255.
- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: cleansers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2018;17(1):8–14.
Disclaimer:
The information on this page is provided by ORY International, LC for educational purposes only. It summarizes published research about sodium cocoyl glutamate as an ingredient, including laboratory and animal studies and clinical studies of formulas that may differ from ORY® products. Results from these studies may not apply to every person or to ORY® products. This page is not medical advice and does not replace advice from a dermatologist, physician, or other qualified healthcare provider.
ORY® Skincare, Haircare, Handmade Soap, and Cosmetics products are cosmetics. They are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, mitigate, or prevent any disease or condition, including eczema, dermatitis, acne, dandruff, or any other condition. References to FDA or Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) findings describe the ingredient, not ORY® products, and do not mean FDA has reviewed or approved any ORY® product.
Results vary by skin and scalp type, formulation, and use. Surfactants can irritate or dry skin, especially at high levels or with frequent use. Any cosmetic can cause irritation, sometimes from other ingredients. Always patch test, follow label directions, and stop use if irritation occurs. If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, consult a healthcare provider before use.
ORY International, LC works to keep this page accurate and current but makes no warranty as to its completeness. To the fullest extent permitted by law, ORY International, LC is not liable for any loss or injury arising from reliance on this information or from use of any product contrary to its label directions. To report a reaction, contact us at [insert contact email / phone].
