ORY® product lines:
☑ Skincare
◐ Haircare (anionic; limited with cationic conditioners — use HEC there)
◐ Handmade Soap (liquid soap thickener/suspender; not cold-process bars)
☑ Cosmetics — three-line functional ingredient
Xanthan gum is a natural polysaccharide produced by fermenting sugars with the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris — the same gum that thickens salad dressings and gluten-free baking. In cosmetics it is the workhorse natural thickener and emulsion stabilizer: at 0.1–1% it builds viscosity, suspends particles, prevents oil–water separation, and gives products a rich, slightly “bouncy” texture, while being stable across pH 3–11, heat, salts, and freeze–thaw cycles [2]. It is COSMOS/Ecocert-approved, biodegradable, and reviewed as safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel among microbial polysaccharide gums [1]. Its two limitations are sensory and electrical: standard grades can feel slightly tacky or stringy at higher levels, and because xanthan is anionic it can interact with cationic conditioners such as BTMS — so HEC is preferred for conditioner thickening. Xanthan has no skin-active role; it is structure.
What is Xanthan Gum made of?
Xanthan gum is produced by aerobic fermentation of glucose or sucrose by Xanthomonas campestris, precipitated with alcohol, dried, and milled. Points to know [1, 2]:
- High-molecular-weight anionic polysaccharide (glucose backbone with mannose–glucuronic acid–mannose side chains): Cream-colored powder; hydrates in cold or hot water.
- Pseudoplastic (shear-thinning): Thick at rest, thin on spreading, then recovers — ideal for lotions and gels; excellent particle suspension.
- Grades: Standard (food/cosmetic), clear (for transparent gels), “soft”/low-tack grades (e.g., enzyme-treated) for elegant skin feel.
- Stability: pH 3–11, heat-stable, salt-tolerant, freeze–thaw stable; synergistic viscosity with guar, locust bean gum, and konjac.
- Anionic: Compatible with anionic and non-ionic systems; may complex with cationic conditioners at high levels.
- Typical use 0.1–1% (0.2–0.5% as emulsion stabilizer; 0.5–1% as gel).
What skin type is best suited for Xanthan Gum?
Xanthan gum is a formulation-level ingredient suitable for all seven ORY® skin types:
- All skin types: Xanthan gum is a formulation-level ingredient rather than a skin-type active; at use levels it is suitable for every ORY® skin type.
- Sensitive: Non-irritating and non-sensitizing at use levels; fragrance-free and inert.
- Oily and Acne-prone: Oil-free; non-comedogenic.
- Dry and Mature: Supports hydrating gels and creams.
- Combination and Normal: Everyday formulation base.
What hair type is best suited for Xanthan Gum?
Xanthan thickens non-cationic haircare and suspends actives in scalp products:
- Curly and coily: Natural curl gels and flaxseed-style custards (non-cationic).
- Straight and wavy: Light styling gels and serums.
- Oily scalp: Thickens water-based scalp tonics and clarifying masks.
- Dandruff-prone, sensitive scalp, mature or thinning: Suspends actives and botanicals in scalp treatments.
- Dry or damaged, color-treated: Use in non-cationic masks; for BTMS conditioners, choose HEC.
What are the benefits of Xanthan Gum?
Xanthan gum’s benefits are functional and well characterized [1, 2]:
- Thickening: Efficient viscosity at 0.1–1%.
- Emulsion stabilization: Prevents oil–water separation in lotions and creams; the key partner to natural emulsifiers (Montanov, Olivem).
- Suspension: Holds beads, botanicals, clays, and pigments in place.
- Shear-thinning feel: Rich at rest, easy to spread.
- Broad stability: pH 3–11, heat, salt, freeze–thaw [2].
- Natural, COSMOS-approved: Fermentation-derived; biodegradable.
- Synergy with other gums: Boosted viscosity with guar, konjac, and locust bean gum.
- Film-forming: Light skin-conditioning film.
Dual use across ORY® product lines
Xanthan gum serves skincare, non-cationic haircare, liquid soap, and cosmetics; cold-process bars need no thickener.
| ORY® line | Dual use? | How it is used | Typical level |
|---|---|---|---|
|
ORY® Skincare |
Yes |
Emulsion stabilizer in lotions and creams; natural gels and gel-creams; masks; serums (soft grades). |
0.1–1% |
|
ORY® Haircare |
Limited |
Non-cationic curl gels, styling gels, masks, scalp tonics; not with BTMS conditioners (use HEC). |
0.3–1% |
|
ORY® Handmade Soap |
Limited |
Thickens and suspends exfoliants in liquid soap and syndet washes; not cold-process bars. |
0.2–0.5% in liquid |
|
ORY® Cosmetics |
Yes |
Foundations and BB creams (stabilization), gel liners, mascaras, cream blush, setting sprays (trace). |
0.1–0.5% |
Pros and cons of Xanthan Gum
Pros
Cons
- Natural, COSMOS-approved emulsion stabilizer: Essential partner to natural emulsifiers.
- Broad stability: pH, heat, salt, freeze–thaw [2].
- Efficient: Low use levels.
- CIR-reviewed safe: [1].
- Affordable and available: Commodity ingredient.
- Tacky/stringy at high %: Use soft grades or blend with HEC/sclerotium gum; keep ≤0.5% in leave-ons.
- Anionic: Interacts with cationic conditioners.
- Lumping on hydration: Pre-disperse in glycol or oil.
- Cloudy in standard grade: Use clear grade for transparent gels.
- No active benefit: Structure only.
What is the best application of Xanthan Gum?
Xanthan gum is built into emulsions and gels:
- Lotion or cream stabilizer: 0.2–0.3% pre-dispersed in propanediol, added to the water phase.
- Natural gel: 0.5–1% (clear or soft grade).
- Face mask: 0.5% to suspend clays and botanicals.
- Curl gel (non-cationic): 0.75–1% with glycerin and flaxseed mucilage.
- Liquid soap or scrub: 0.3–0.5% to suspend exfoliants.
- Cosmetics: 0.2% in foundations.
Peer-reviewed references
- Fiume MM, Heldreth B, Bergfeld WF, et al. Safety assessment of microbial polysaccharide gums as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology. 2016;35(1 Suppl):5S–49S.
- García-Ochoa F, Santos VE, Casas JA, Gómez E. Xanthan gum: production, recovery, and properties. Biotechnology Advances. 2000;18(7):549–579.
- Lundov MD, Moesby L, Zachariae C, Johansen JD. Contamination versus preservation of cosmetics: a review on legislation, usage, infections, and contact allergy. Contact Dermatitis. 2009;60(2):70–78.
Disclaimer:
The information on this page is provided by ORY International, LC for educational purposes only. It summarizes published research about xanthan gum as an ingredient, including laboratory and animal studies and clinical studies of formulas that may differ from ORY® products. Results from these studies may not apply to every person or to ORY® products. This page is not medical advice and does not replace advice from a dermatologist, physician, or other qualified healthcare provider.
ORY® Skincare, Haircare, Handmade Soap, and Cosmetics products are cosmetics. They are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, mitigate, or prevent any disease or condition, including eczema, dermatitis, acne, dandruff, or any other condition. References to FDA or Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) findings describe the ingredient, not ORY® products, and do not mean FDA has reviewed or approved any ORY® product.
Results vary by skin and scalp type, formulation, and use. This ingredient is rarely irritating, and any cosmetic can cause irritation, sometimes from other ingredients. Always patch test, follow label directions, and stop use if irritation occurs. If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition, or are buying for a child, consult a healthcare provider before use.
ORY International, LC works to keep this page accurate and current but makes no warranty as to its completeness. To the fullest extent permitted by law, ORY International, LC is not liable for any loss or injury arising from reliance on this information or from use of any product contrary to its label directions. To report a reaction, contact us at [insert contact email / phone].
